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San Ignacio, Belize

Adventure – To me, this is the one word that describes the country of Belize. Travelers come to Belize to experience an adventurous vacation whether it be exploring caves, hiking the jungles, taking a 4×4 expedition, or just tubing down rivers. Belize is a small country that makes up one of the eight countries in Central America. Belize is bordered by Mexico and Guatemala and English is the official language. You won’t find many Spanish Speaking people here like the other surrounding countries but many Belizeans speak creole which is a language that has been developed by mixing different languages into one. Belize is a relatively new country, at least the name Belize is newer since prior to 1981 it was known as British Honduras. Belize is generally divided into 5 separate regions: Belize District,  Cayo, Northern Belize, Stann Creek, and Toledo. A majority of the visitors to include myself will head to the Cayo District for a few days to explore the jungle then many might head back to Belize City to hop on a ferry to one of the nearby islands. The Cayo District is where my adventure really started and the main hoping point here is the town of San Ignacio.  Getting to San Ignacio San Ignacio is located in the jungles of the Cayo District. Belize does not have the best infrastructure or highway networks, so getting to San Ignacio does take a little bit of planning but it’s really quite simple. There is a small airport in San Ignacio that has flights to and from Belize City. We met a couple on their Honey Moon here in Belize, and they flew and used the airport and said everything worked as expected without issues, so there is that option. The cheaper option and the option we opted for was to hop on a bus that went from Belize City to San Ignacio. Think of the “Yellow” school buses we use in the States. These are similar to the shuttles used for transportation. The journey is about 2.5 hours and isn’t the most comfortable journey but it is interesting and one heck of an experience. All the buses will make a stop in the capital city of Belmopan before being directed to San Ignacio or other destinations.  Here is what we did to arrive at the bus station from the Philip Goldson International Airport (Belize City Airport).  Set aside $50, this will pay for the taxi to and from the bus station from the airport, $25 each way. A taxi is basically the only way to get here from the airport. Once you arrive at the bus station, buses leave toward San Ignacio every 30 minutes so no worries if one pulls out once you arrive. Bus fares are 7 Belizean Dollars which equates to about $3.50 USD. You pay there and wait for one of the buses to start boarding. Generally, it is first come first serve and you can sit anywhere on the bus. The bus will make frequent stops between Belize City and San Ignacio but all buses will stop in Belmopan for about 15 minutes before continuing on to San Ignacio. To get back to Belize City, buses pick up is the same location as the drop off area and it mimics the same route back to Belize City.  Many locals ride the bus but most travelers especially budget travelers use it as well. We met many interesting people while taking the bus. We met a guy from Canada who goes around the country planting trees. We also met a group of Germans from my hometown, Wiesbaden who were traveling around Central and South America for months. It’s funny, since San Ignacio is not very big and many people have similiar itineraries, we ran into many of the same people every day we even made friends with a Portuguese/Canadian couple because we saw them on a few tours, in town at restaurants, and even ended up in Cay Caulker at the end of the trip. We went out together for drinks and had an incredible time and made great travel memories with them.  San Ignacio, Places to Discover and Eat! San Ignacio is a relatively small town in the middle of Belize. Although small, San Ignacio is a great base station for travelers looking for an adventure and take part in day trips and fun exploration. The Cayo district is full of Ancient Mayan Ruins, sacred caves, lush jungles, and is close to the border of Guatemala. San Ignacio is pretty walkable so I wouldn’t recommend renting a car or anything and most tour companies will provide transportation anyway. Many of the restaurants, shops, markets can be found in the downtown area while other restaurants and attractions are a short walk from the down town area. We stayed directly downtown at the Maya Bella hotel. Although most people come to San Ignacio for day trips away from the city, there are a few fun attractions to do within the city that should not be missed. Jill and I had a full free day here without any tours to exploring the town and we have a few hours after the tours to explore and eat. Here are some of the fun attractions and activities to do within San Ignacio. AJAW Chocolate & Crafts – We stumbled upon this place and went inside since there was a big advertisement for chocolate tours and we can’t pass up learning about and eating chocolate. It was not quite what we expected, in fact it was much more interesting and better then we expected. We got to watch and partake in making and eating traditional Mayan chocolate. The staff showed us the whole process from extracting the cacao bean and turning it into a paste using traditional stones to grind the beans. We then made chocolate drinks from the paste with hot water. At first you could taste how bitter real chocolate really is. Then by adding natural sweetener to it like honey it becomes more familiar to our taste buds. Trying the chocolate at various stages and learning about it here was a phenomenal experience. The owner here who presented the tour to us was of Mayan descent and we ended up learning a lot about the Mayan people and their cultures.  [envira-gallery id=”3171″] Cahal Pech – Cahal Pech is a arge Mayan site just outside of the downtown area. We walked here from our hotel in just a few minutes. We started our day early here and arrived at 7 am when they opened. We practically had the whole site to ourselves for several hours. I’ve been to several Mayan sites around Belize, Guatemala, and Mexico, and this one is ranked up there with my favorites. We freely explored the ruins on our own pace, you can even climb the ruins and walk around the structures without issues. This site is not commercialized like some of the bigger ones making it even more enjoyable. There is an interesting museum here and I think we paid around $5 USD to visit the site. Cahal Pech is a must!  [envira-gallery id=”3180″] We spent a few nights in San Ignacio and we love to explore a new place by sampling local restaurants and trying new things. Here are some of the restaurants and dessert shops we tried that I think are worth trying. Erva’s Restaurant – Located downtown this small restaurant serves up fresh cuisine from the area. They had outdoor seating, which I generally prefer. I ordered the fried fish fillet and Jill had coconut fish. Both fish dishes were cooked nicely and we were very pleased with our first meal in Belize.  Guava Limb Cafe – This restaurant was probably our favorite. It caught my attention right away, the decoration and atmosphere was just so welcoming. This restaurant was two-storied. For dinner, I had the jerk chicken quesadilla and Jill had a traditional panini, both meals were excellent. They also had great looking cake here for dessert, have to save room for cake next time.  Ko Ox Han Nah – This restaurant was a popular one, we came at the right time because shortly after, there was a long line. Jill had the lamb burger and I had pork cutlets with coconut rice. The flavors here were unique to us, we really enjoyed it. Sweet Ting – Passed by this cute little cake shop on the way to downtown from Cahal Pech. This place was tiny, but there were two tables inside and cakes in the display case. We purchased a couple slices of mocha rum cake and some cookies. Yumm Yumm Yumm!  The Ice Cream Shoppe – Who doesn’t love a good ice cream? Especially in new places with interesting and tropical flavors. I kept hearing the term soursop and saw it as an ice cream flavor and had to try. Soursop is a dark green prickly fruit and the inside is a whitish color. It’s super refreshing and tasted especially yummy in ice cream.  Day Trips from San Ignacio Day trips are why tourists come to San Ignacio in the first place. I’ve said it many times, San Ignacio is where everyone comes to before going on single and multi day excursions. Honestly, there is no way anyone can fit in all the excursions they want in one trip. We planned on two, but after spending time here I can say there are at least 5 other trips I want to take that I didn’t even know about, looks like I’ll have to go back! We Here are the two trips we went on that were literally life changing! We booked our two day trips online prior to our visit. The tour company we went with is called MayaWalk Tours. They were incredible on both trips. You can go to their shop downtown to book tours, we just thought we have to book in advance, which is not the case but it can’t hurt especially during tourist season. They provide transportation, lunch, equipment if needed, and are full of informative information! The two tours we booked were the ATM Cave Tour and the Caracol Mayan Ruins and Rio Frio Cave. Other tours they do include trips to Tikal, Guatemala, and other nearby Mayan Sites, they also do cave tubing, horseback riding, birdwatching, and other cultural tours.  Actun Tunichil Muknal Tour – Otherwise known as the ATM Cave, was literally one of the best experiences in my life. I wrote a whole blog post about this, so I won’t go into to much detail. But If you only have time for one tour, I highly recommend doing the ATM Cave. This cave is famous for the Crystal Maiden, who is believed to be a young female sacrificial victim. There are other skeletal remains and artifacts throughout the cave. The main draw of the cave beside the Crystal Maiden, is getting to the cavern where she rests. For the most part, you have to swim your way through narrow alley ways of the cave, climb rocks, and slide down natural water slides. Cameras are not allowed here as people previously have damaged the skeletons with their cameras and it’s just a safety hazard, after exploring the cave, I completely understand why. Before getting to the cave and after exiting the group has to walk a bit to get to the actual cave through lush rainforest, we saw a fresh jaguar paw print in the mud!  Caracol Mayan Ruins – Expect rain if you are in the rain forest. Getting to and from Caracol was an adventure in itself. We lucked out as we were the only visitors that day and got a private tour with a guide through MayaWalk. Our tour guide Darryl, was great and used his own 4×4 to get us safely there. Caracol is tricky to reach, the roads are basically mud and everyone has to depart at a certain time and get escorted

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Belize
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ATM Cave in Belize, What an Adventure!

Direction to Actun Tunichil Muknal Actun Tunichil Muknal or as we call it, the ATM Cave. This archaeological site is within the Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve about an hour away by vehicle from San Ignacio, Belize. It is required to book a tour to visit the cave due to safety and preservation. We ended up booking our tour online through a local company in San Ignacio Called Mayawalk Tours. The tour was absolutely incredible and visiting the ATM is one of the most adventurous and memorable experiences I’ve done. The Belizean Government made it illegal to take cameras within the cave due to the archaeological artifacts and because a tourist dropped their camera and smashed one of the skulls ruining it for all of us. But after exploring this cave, their is no way I would have even wanted to take anything but my water shoes and swim shorts. Because of the ban on cameras, I left mine behind, and all the photos on this post were taken from MayaWalk.  ATM Cave in Belize – History Lesson! Our tour guide was in the process of receiving his PhD in Archaeology and his primary focus was the ATM Cave in Belize. Because of this, we learned so much about this cave, from its history to the local nature and wildlife surrounding it.  Mayan life was not always about sacrifices and ripping beating hearts out of a victims chest as portrayed in our media. They did practice a ritual called Blood Letting. Blood letting was a ritual performed by the Mayans where they would cut themselves as offerings to the gods. When times were tough mainly do to drought, blood letting was not quite “cutting” it and they offered sacrificial victims to the gods, these victims were mainly of high status.  To the Maya people, caves were an access to the underworld. So it is not unheard of to find archaeological evidence of Maya life within caves. The ATM Cave in Belize is a prime example of rituals taking place. Along the route to the main cavern there is evidence of human activity including alters and stains from smoke on the ceiling. The main cavern here holds 16 skeletons and thousands of fragments from pottery, not one of them fully in tact, these are known as kill holes. Archaeologists are not  entirely sure why they   performed this  behavior but we do know  they were ceremonial offerings for ritual purposes.  How to Get here and what to bring Booking tours to the ATM Cave in Belize was fairly easy. We booked our tour with MayaWalk Tours  online a few weeks in advance. There are several other tour companies, and you can even book through companies directly in San Ignacio a day prior. Simply walk up to one of the shops offering tours and sign up.  We met at 7 am, and took the hour bus ride to the archaeological site. There is a parking spot here with restrooms and a pavilion.  Now comes the good stuff! To access the cave, you need to get their via hiking and river crossings. Surprisingly, the water was kind of chilly. While hiking through the lush jungle pay attention as you might see animals. Our tour guide pointed out a fresh Jaguar paw print in the mud. Before reaching the cave, the tour guide will have you leave all things in a safe location outside, including water bottles. Trust me, you don’t want to bring anything into the ATM cave. But, below is a checklist of things to bring since I was curious at first on how to prep for an excursion like this.   Bring Water Shoes Swim Suit Leave in Car or Cave Entrance Camera Water Bottle (Bring for the Hike) Backpacks Anything of Value Change of Clothes So it Begins! One of the most challenging yet rewarding experiences of my life!!! Once dropping off your personal items at the entrance you will walk down a set of slippery stairs and see the entrance of the cave. The entrance of the cave alone was a beautiful site to see! Be prepared to get and stay wet for the next several hours. In order to access the cave you have to swim through the entrance. At the very end of the cave is a natural spring feeding water through, but the tour does not go that far, it would add several additional hours. I mention this because the whole time you are exploring the cave you walk against the river and  it can get deep in spots. One section you have to  actually hold on to the rocks, tilt your head to the side and edge your way through. I’ve seen stuff like this on t.v. and always thought to myself ” Nope, not me, those people are crazy” Guess what? I did it and absolutely loved it!  Along the trek, you will see typical cave features like stalactites, stalagmites, columns, cave bacon, etc..  As if hiking through a river in a dark cave is not challenging enough, your skills are tested once more. Before getting to the main event, one must rock climb (not as bad as it sounds), to get to the chamber.  At this point, the guides recommend wearing socks and leaving your shoes behind, which you will reunite with later. I felt you had better traction with socks, so go for it! Once in the cavern, watch your step there are ceramics and skeletons laying around. This is the site where blood letting and sacrifices occurred. Meander your way through this cavern and you will see yourself face to face with a ladder!  Hopefully you are good at climbing because what lies up there is well worth seeing.  The main photo on this post is of the “Crystal Maiden.” She has been resting in this location for the last thousand years. So why is she so popular? Due to the natural crystallization in the cave, her skeleton remained in tact and she appears to be sparkling. She rests in a location alone and above the rest, she was most likely 18 at the time of her death. Like the other victims, blunt force trauma is most likely the cause of death. The only way out of the ATM cave is back the same way! There have been tours stuck in the main cavern due to high water. Generally, going back is quicker, there are not as many stops. If you are lucky though and have a cool tour guide, there are a few alternate paths they allow you to take that were pretty adventurous. Upon exiting the cave, take a final look back, because the entrance is just beautiful with the clear water and surrounding jungle. The hike back was the same, the water crossings seemed colder after having time to dry off. After 45 minutes of walking we arrived back at the parking lot just in time to put on dry clothes and enjoy lunch and Rum Punch!  Actun Tunichil Muknal in all honesty was one of the greatest experiences of my life and definitely the most adventurous. I highly recommend adding the ATM cave to your Belize itinerary. 

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