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Our New Chapter, Iwakuni to Okinawa

The saying goes, “All good things must come to an end,” unfortunately that is how we feel because we are leaving Iwakuni after 1.5 years. When I first received a job offer to work in Iwakuni, I’ve never even heard of this town and I bet most people haven’t. I always told myself I want to live in a smaller city yet close enough to a big city, I wanted to live near an ocean and have access to mountains, and I wanted to live in a city that has great public transportation. Iwakuni ticked all these boxes. To me, Iwakuni was the perfect city and I wish I could have lived here another 5 years, but no matter what, I was grateful to be given the opportunity to live here and have made countless memories. Jill and I have always wanted to live abroad together, we finally achieved this goal but when we found out our contract was up we were both upset. After all, we were planning on heading back to the United States to look for work, but with the current COVID-19 situation and Politics, we weren’t particularly excited to be moving back. Japan has handled the COVID-19 situation brilliantly and we didn’t want to leave. Lucky for us, we found employment in Okinawa Japan and are currently making our way down there.  I’ve never really gave much thought about living on a tropical island in the Pacific Ocean, but the more I think about it the more excited I get. I’ve heard from numerous people that Okinawa is like what Hawaii is to the United States. It has crystal clear water, some of the prettiest beaches on the planet, and quite possibly some of the best Scuba Diving destinations on Earth. Although we are sad to leave mainland Japan both Jill and I are looking forward to our next adventure….Okinawa! Leaving Iwakuni for Good February 25, 2021 – This is the date we left Iwakuni for good. We closed out our apartment and shared a tearful goodbye with our Japanese friends. Closing out of an apartment in Japan is straightforward and easy. The realtor comes over along with an individual from the water company and another from the electric company. They turn off the utilities and you pay them the final bill right then and there in cash. This was great, that way there are no online bills that will haunt you down the road.  There are two ways to get to Okinawa, one is to fly and the other is to take a 25 hour ferry ride from Japan’s southern most city, Kagoshima. We own a car and decided it would be easiest to load the car from floor to ceiling with all our belongings including our bikes and drive through Yamaguchi down to the ferry port in Kagoshima located on the Kyushu Island of Japan.  All together, it is about a 6.5 hour drive from Iwakuni to Kagoshima using the toll roads. We didn’t want to do this all in one trip as our car’s wheel wells were nearly touching the tires and we wanted to give our car a rest, so we stayed one night in a town called Kumamoto. Kumamoto February 25, 2021 – We drove directly about 4.5 hours from Iwakuni to Kumamoto which is the capital of Kumamoto Prefecture. First, we made a pit stop at a rest area, because our friends made us a delicious and traditional Japanese meal. It was amazing and thoughtful, Emi made us a lunch box with fried chicken, grilled sausages, pork and onion, Japanese omelets, pickled veggies, rice balls, potato salad, and a renkon (lotus root) salad. It was wonderful. Thank you! I was very much looking forward to visiting Kumamoto because the castle here is considered one of Japan’s most beautiful and is the third largest castle in Japan. Our friends told us it was under construction so I immediately thought some portions might be under renovations, you know just touching up some paint or polishing some wood, no biggie. Boy was I wrong. Apparently in 2016 there was a major earthquake that impacted the area killing 273 people and injuring thousands. Terrible tragedy, but I couldn’t help but wonder, the earthquake was 5 years ago, why does it still lie in ruins and how come it is taking so long to restore the castle to its former beauty? I read somewhere on the castle grounds that the city wants to rebuilt the castle exactly how it was, so they have numbered each and every stone and will then place them back in the exact position they were. I find it fascinating that they are restoring it completely, and hope to visit Kumamoto again to see the castle back to normal! Here are a few photos I took of portions of the walls and turrets, the above photo is the main keep, this portion has been fully restored.  [envira-gallery id=”3518″] February 26, 2021 – Kumamon is the Prefectural Mascot and is the most popular mascot in all of Japan. Kumamon is a bear with big red cheeks. We saw Kumamon souvenirs all throughout Kumamoto, he even has his own office in Kumamon Square. Jill and I visited his office (more of a souvenir shop) since it was rainy out.  [envira-gallery id=”3555″] After visiting Kumamon in his office at Kumamon Square, we went back to our car to drive to Kagoshima. The drive from Kumamoto to Kagoshima was about 2.5 hours using the toll roads.  Here is a photo dump from some fun stuff around Kumamoto.  [envira-gallery id=”3535″] Kagoshima February 26, 2021 – Our ferry from Kagoshima was set to depart at 1800 on the 27th of February and we would land in Okinawa the following day. Unfortunately, we received a phone call from a travel agent that the ferry for that particular day had been cancelled due to bad weather at sea. Our only option was to go to the ferry terminal Sunday morning (February 28th) and see if there would be any availability. Originally, I was worried about not getting enough time to explore Kagoshima since we would only be there for an evening and a night, so I guess I was not to bummed about getting a full day to explore the city. Kagoshima is the capital city of the Kagoshima Prefecture. Kagoshima is the southern most large city on the Kyushu island and is the ending point for the Shinkansen (bullet train). One of the more dominant features of this town is Sakurajima which is a large and very active volcano. I read online that the volcano erupts more then 800 times a year. Everywhere you walk, you can see the volcano and every time I’ve looked at it, it’s been spitting out ash clouds, pretty neat!  February 27th, 2021 – This was our day to explore Kagoshima, we had all day to bum around and see the sites. The first thing we did was visit the aquarium. I was very much excited to see this aquarium because they have a whale shark! I’ve never seen an aquarium with a whale shark. I know the Atlanta aquarium has whale sharks and I’ve been wanting to visit that aquarium, I’ll get there eventually. For now, the Kagoshima had a whale shark and we arrived just in time for feeding time! For about 5 minutes, the staff would put small amounts of food in a basket and empty the contents in a circular pattern around the tank and we could watch the whale shark suck in a mouthful of water along with the food, like a vacuum it was fun! I noticed the whale shark was a bit smaller then what I would have expected. I read today that the whale sharks here get released back into the wild once they reach a mature age, so although I was happy to see the little guy, I am glad he gets to return to his natural habitat. Other then the whale shark, the aquarium had a lot of local fish from the Kagoshima area, seals, and the Arapaima or Pirarucu which are those giant fresh water fish from the Amazon, I always love seeing these guys.  [envira-gallery id=”3548″] After a nice visit to the local aquarium we took in some more sites around Kagoshima. We visited the Terukuni Shrine, Central Park, Kagoshima Castle and then hiked to the observatory deck. In route to the observatory deck, we made an amazing discovery! There were several areas along the route that had tiny staircases for frogs. Apparently these are for frogs that fall into the drainage system, it gives them a place to escape and hop back above ground, we loved seeing this! [envira-gallery id=”3566″] Once we got to the top of the observatory deck, we could get a great view of Sakurajima and the whole city of Kagoshima, much bigger then I originally expected! Afterwards we walked around the shopping arcade area until we got tired and went to bed!  February 28, 2021 – Today is the big day! Today we board the ferry and head to Okinawa to start our new lives! Not so fast!!! We promptly arrived at the ferry terminal at 0830 to talk to someone at the ticket counter to see if ferries were active again. One person there spoke English and told us that once again due to weather the ferries were cancelled. Right away our hearts sank, what a crappy feeling. There are two ferry companies that go interchangeably, so we thought ok well if not today then how about tomorrow? He called the ferry line that was departing tomorrow which is March 1st, let out a big sigh and said the ferry was full! Well, Sh*t, turns out the next ferry that had an opening was not until Wednesday, meaning we won’t get to Okinawa until Thursday night. It was our only available option, so we had to reserve it. So originally I was afraid of not having enough time to explore Kagoshima, now we have a whole 5 days to explore the city! We were pretty bummed and shocked at first, but after a while we came to accept that it’s really out of our control so might as well enjoy our time here.  We had to book another hotel today which turned out to be great because it’s a lot cheaper and more spacious. Today was kind of a repeat of yesterday. We walked around downtown Kagoshima and ate way to much, thankfully my step counter watch is showing 24969 steps so we are getting our exercise in. We used today to take it easy and plan trips for the next couple of days. Tomorrow (March 1st) we plan to take our bikes on a ferry to Sakurajima and bike 40km around the island. We’ll see how that goes!  [envira-gallery id=”3570″] March 1, 2021 – Today was a great day, it almost made me forget about the frustrations with the ferry. Weather wise, today was perfect, it was sunny for the most part and stayed relatively warm, perfect for a full day’s bike ride. We brought our bikes along and planned on riding around Sakurajima which is the active volcano that can be seen from Kagoshima. First things first, we had to wipe our bikes down because they had ash all over them. Our poor car was covered in a layer of ash. A ferry takes vehicles and passengers from Kagoshima port to Sakurajima about every fifteen minutes. The two of us plus bikes costed  660 Yen which is about $6 USD. Once we got to Sakurajima we took a left turn and followed the road that circles the island. In total we rode 37 Km (23 miles) and made many stops. At first the cloud coverage limited our visibility of the volcano but once we got about half way around the island the clouds cleared and we had great views of the volcano.  Here

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Guide to Miyajima Island, Japan

Miyajima Island, Japan is considered to be in the Top 3 most scenic sites in all of Japan and home to the Floating Shrine a UNESCO World Heritage Site, there is no wonder why this island receives over four million visitors annually. Itsukushima is the proper name of the island but everyone knows it as Miyajima Island meaning “Shrine Island” or as I like to call it, “Deer Island” since the island is home to a small species of deer that roam around and are not afraid of humans. Miyajima is a holy place full of shrines and temples. Strict measures have been in place here to keep Miyajima authentic so locals and visitors alike can enjoy a taste of real Japan. We’ve been to Miyajima a handful of times now and each time it feels like a new experience. The town is somewhat large for being an island with a lot of great souvenir shops and restaurants, the hiking here is superb, and exploring the shrines and temples are extraordinary! In this guide to Miyajima Island, you can find information on transportation to the island, attractions, things to do and see, and the delicious street food and restaurants.  **This post contains affiliate links. If you click on one of the links or banners throughout the page, whether it be TripAdvisor, Booking.com. Agoda.com, or any other affiliate, I might receive commission at no extra cost to you. For more information, you can visit my affiliate link page here. Thanks for the support! Miyajima on a Map and How to Get Here Miyajima makes for a great day trip from either Hiroshima City or Iwakuni as it is about a 30 minute drive give or take from either city. Miyajima is located in Hiroshima prefecture and can only be accessed by ferry. There are two ferry lines that go back and forth between Miyajima and mainland Japan, the JR Ferry and Matsudai Ferry. One way tickets are ¥180 or ¥360 Roundtrip and the time is about ten minutes. There is a ferry that leaves port about every 15 minutes, so you never have to wait long for one. Cars, motorcycles, and bikes are also allowed. Jill, myself, and some friends all rode our bikes from Iwakuni to Miyajima and they charge an extra ¥100 for the bike. I don’t really think one needs a bike to get around but there is a road that circles half of the island. Otherwise, walking is the best way to explore Miyajima.  *For more information and a ferry time table view the JR West Miyajima Ferry website and or the Matsudai Ferries website. The Deer at Miyajima Besides the Floating Torii Gate and Itsukushima Shrine, Miyajima is known for the deer that freely walk around the island. The deer at Miyajima are the same type of deer found in Nara. These deer are Sika Deer or locally known as Nihonjika which translates to “Japanese Deer” in Japan. They are medium sized but quite small compared to deer e are used to seeing in the United States. The males do have antlers, but for safety reasons people on the island saw them off.  The deer on Miyajima can be found all over the island. They hang out in front of shops, you can find herds of them at the campground, they are even found near the top of Mt. Misen. The deer here have grown accustomed to humans and are not afraid to beg for food. Unfortunately you have so many oblivious people here that leave trash around or try to feed the deer and the deer end up eating things they shouldn’t like trash. Like always, use common sense, don’t feed the deer. There is plenty of grass and other plants for them to eat. Some of the deer can also get quite pushy and head butt you.  Top Things to Do and See at Miyajima Being one of Japan’s most popular destinations, Miyajima is rich in culture, history, and offers plenty to do and see. Many visitors will come to Miyajima to enjoy nature and hike to the top of Mt. Misen while others simply want to  shop for traditional Japanese goods and souvenirs. Regardless of your intent o visit Miyajima Island, there is something here for everyone! Whether you are just visiting for a half day or staying the night on the island here is a guide to Miyajima Island and my most recommended sites and things to do and see in order to maximize your trip while visiting.  Itsukushima Shrine and the Famous Floating Torii Gate Every guide to Miyajima Island will list Itsukushima Shrine as the number one attraction along with the Floating Torii Gate. This is a huge complex that was built in the year 593 and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. This shrine is really neat as it is built on stilts so it appears to be floating in water when the tide rolls in. There is a world famous Torii Gate here as well. The Floating Torii Gate is all over postcards and tourism adds but unfortunately it has been under renovation the entire time I’ve been here, so I have yet to really see it.  Toyokuni Shrine and the 5-storied Pagoda This is a huge shrine built on top of the hill, it’s hard to miss. There is a beautiful 5-story pagoda next to it. Within this complex there is a giant wooden shrine named Senjokaku. Senjokaku is the largest building or structure on the island. The pagoda is remarkable and in my opinion one of the prettiest in all of Japan. The pagoda is 27.6 meters high and was first built in 1407 but has been remodeled and reconstructed since. Since Toyokuni Shrine sits on a hill, you can get great photos of the pagoda from the streets below or numerous other locations in the area. You can walk up the hill to the shrine, I feel the temple is so big it’s tough to get decent photos of the shrine on top of the hill.  Hike the Trails to the Top of Mt. Misen Any visitor that comes to Miyajima, the first thing I recommend is hiking to the top of Mt. Misen. It’s only 530 meters above sea level but it can be a challenging hike. There are several routes to the top, we generally like to hike up one route and take a different one down. The distance of the trails are but a few kilometers in length, the elevation gain is pretty steep though. For those that are not as adventurous or like us, you’ve been to the top many times, there is a ropeway that goes to the top, although it doesn’t quite go to Mt. Misen, you still have to walk from the ropeway station. The views from the top are incredible. You can great views of the sea and surrounding areas, you can even see the city of Hiroshima.  Don’t Have Time or Stamina to Hike? Take the Ropeway to Mt. Misen Taking the ropeway to the top of Mt. Misen is a great way to get the same amazing views from the top without all the sweat and heavy breathing. Although, there is still a short 10-15 minute hike from the ropeway, it’s fairly flat.  The ropeway is really long and divided into two sections. It does get very busy during weekends and local holidays. I’ve seen 30 minute to 1 hour wait times.  Don’t Miss Daisho-in, One of My Favorites in all of Japan Daisho-in is kind of set back from the town so I don’t think as many people know about this temple. Daisho-in is a Buddhist temple that is definitely in my top 3 favorites in all of Japan. It is a massive complex surrounded by the mountains. One of my favorite things about this temple is the cute Buddhist statues scattered throughout the grounds.  Explore some of the WWII Ruins On the north end of Miyajima, there is a road (route 43) that hugs the coastline of the island eventually coming to a dead end on the east side of the island. I’ve both walked and rode my bike on this road and there are some unique attractions worth seeing. Most tourists will stay around the town and shrines and few will venture further then that. Along route 43 there are a few ruins that can be seen from the road. I’ve walked to a few of the ruins and they are quite interesting. I assume they are left over structures from WWII although there are no signs and little to no information online about these ruins. They look similar to ruins on Okunoshima Island and appear to have gun turrets on top of the buildings so I am going to assume they are from the war. Whether or not they are from WWII the ruins are still really fun to explore.  Visit some of the Beautiful Beaches Along Route 43 are several secluded beaches. I think beaches in Japan, especially mainland Japan are so under rated. As you can see in the photo above, the beach is stunning with its white sand and turquoise water. Now, I don’t think you can really snorkel here or see much marine life, but relaxing on the beach on a hot summers day is definitely an ideal way to spend some time. Like the ruins, these beaches are far from town and accessible only with some sort of vehicle or bike, unless you really like walking and don’t mind spending a whole day walking just to get here. I mean, I’ve done it and would say it is worth it! Stop by Miyajima Public Aquarium For an island the size of Miyajima they have a really nice aquarium. Many of the marine wildlife here are from the region. They have a display showing a small sample of the oyster farms and they even have a giant salamander. I had no idea how big these salamander’s were until I actually saw it. This aquarium also has the biggest sea lion I’ve ever seen.  Street Food, Restaurants, and Miyajima Brewery One of my favorite things to do in Miyajima is to visit the downtown area and sample the street food. There is one main street in Miyajima that has these cool awnings that open and close, weather dependent. Either way, here you can find great little restaurants and outside vendors selling street food.  Street food is not as popular as I had hoped around Japan, so it’s always a nice treat when visiting Miyajima. One of their most famous treats here are the momiji, which are kind of like fried dough pastries with some sort of filling. In Japan a popular filling is red bean paste, not our favorite but we are slowly getting used to it, I prefer custard or chocolate. The Hiroshima area is famous for oysters and there is no shortage of them here. You can find several vendors selling freshly grilled oysters or fried oysters on a stick. I’ve tried both and they are oh so yummy! Many restaurants will also serve oysters, usually they are a bit more pricey but equally as good. One of my favorite treats is this long fish cake on a stick. I’m not sure what the correct name is but there are several stalls that sell them. You can get them with various toppings, I personally like bacon and cheese. Last time Jill and I went, we got ice cream with hot sweet potato and it was actually very tasty. The chunks of hot sweet potato paired nicely with freshly made vanilla. There are a lot of sit down restaurants in Miyajima as well. You can find everything from okonomiyaki and ramen to local izakaya’s and bars. One other favorite stop of mine is Miyajima Brewery. It’s a local brewery on the island that makes great craft beer. They have a restaurant and an outside area below that only does beer. They

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Visiting Hagi, Japan

Considered one of Japan’s best kept secrets! Hagi, is a small castle town located on the western side of Yamaguchi Prefecture over looking the Sea of Japan. This castle town has been remarkably preserved. Although the castle lies in ruins much of the town including streets and buildings are as they were centuries ago. Hagi was the seat of the Mori Clan. The Mori Clan (Japanese Samurai Clan) settled in this area for more then 250 years around the 1600’s. After this period ended, Hagi became a significant location during the Meiji Period (1868-1912). The Meiji Period was a period of renewal for Japan. During the Meiji Period, Japan quickly became industrialized and adopted many ideas from the Western World. Today, Hagi is a quite town with a lot to offer. Visitors can stroll the streets of the Castle Town, explore some of the nearby shrines and temples, and enjoy multiple other activities and sites that are just a short drive away! What to Do and See Around Hagi Jill and I have been to Hagi at least three times now. From Iwakuni it is a 2 hour drive with tolls and 2.5 hour drive when avoiding tolls. The first time we went to Hagi was with our friend Kimball. Our first time around, Japan was on full lock down so we were pretty restricted on what we could do. Thankfully the last couple times we’ve been able to fully enjoy Hagi without all the ridiculous restrictions brought upon us by COVID-19. For being a small town, Hagi does offer a ton to see and do. Listed are some of the attractions we thoroughly enjoyed and recommend visiting.  Mount Kasayama At 112 meters, Mt. Kasayama is the smallest active volcano in East Asia. There is a parking lot at the base of the mountain and visitors can walk down inside the crater via a short stair case. We did walk inside the crater, just enough time to snap a selfie and view what was beyond the fences. Afterwards, we walked to the observation deck on the volcano. The views of the Sea of Japan are incredible from this location.  Kasayama Camellia Groves The Kasayama Camellia Groves were one of our favorite natural attractions in the area. The last time Jill and I visited Hagi was specifically to see the Camellia Trees. Apparently in winter they bloom a beautiful red flower and the ground is covered with the red flowers. Unfortunately, we came at the wrong time and some trees were starting to bud while others already lost the flower. The Camellia trees and the park here is kind of eerie. The trees are tall and thin but provide a ton of shade making the entrance seem like you are entering a dark tunnel. There are miles of walking trails here, but we like to hug the trail along the coast and gaze out at the ocean and walk on the volcanic rocks. Myojin Pond Definitely a hidden gem. We drove past Myojin Pond our first time around and didn’t think to stop the second time, but it was a clear day and I wanted to take photos of the pond. I am not sure if we just got lucky but the day we were here there were hundreds of hawks, I believe Black Kite is the hawk species. People were feeding the hawks, which is probably why there were so many. Looking around, the hawks were on the houses, telephone wires, tress, street signs, statues, you name it. The pond itself is pretty unique as it is a salt water pond. The water fluctuates depending on the tide and the water comes through cracks in rocks that lead out to the ocean. There are several salt water species of fish here including the cute little fugu or pufferfish. Jill found her happy place here because there were four friendly felines here that were begging her for pets. Win win situation, I got to take photos of hawks while Jill got to relax and pet cute kitties.  Reverberatory Furnace Not the most fascinating site, but the Reverberatory Furnace and other sites from the Meiji Industrial Revolution are a UNESCO site and worth checking out. There are a total of 23 sites around Japan that showcase the Meiji Industrial Revolution and five of those sites are found scattered around Hagi. I would say the most popular one is probably the Reverberatory Furnace. Last time we went to Hagi we drove by it and stopped for five minutes to see it. This furnace was built in 1858 and used in weapon production.  Tokoji Temple Definitely in my list of top 3 favorite temples in all of Japan. The Tokoji Temple is a family temple of the Mori Clan. This temple was built in 1691, Daiohoden, the main hall is impressive and made entirely out of wood. The real draw to this temple is the 500 stone lanterns and tombs behind the main hall. Four Meiji Restoration leaders, eleven samurai warriors, and Mori Lords are all buried here. The lanterns line the walkways and many of the tombs are overgrown by moss, this site is truly magnificent and probably my number one recommendation in Hagi.  Hagi Castle Town Hagi Castle Town has been well preserved for hundreds of years. The castle lies in ruins, but the town was relatively unaffected. To this day, you can walk around the castle town, view some of the old samurai mansions and merchant shops. Both times we’ve been here, there hasn’t been a whole lot going on, I am not sure if it’s because Covid, or it’s just a sleepy part of town during the day. Either way, it is nice to stroll the streets and take photos.  Hagi Castle Built in 1604, Hagi Castle was the seat of the Mori Clan for over 250 years. Due to the feudal era of Japan, all the keeps and wooden structures were dismantled, leaving only the stone foundation and moat of the original castle. The castle is still well worth a visit. There is a ¥210 entrance fee. You didn’t hear this from me, but the castle can be accessed from the sculpture park area without going through the visitor gate, I’ve seen people come in and out this way both times I’ve visited. There are many Sakura Trees (Cherry Blossom) in the castle complex. During Sakura Season, this would be an incredible spot to visit.  Sculpture Park and Beach The sculpture park is located right by the castle, between the ruins and beach. The sculptures are kind of modern, not really to my likings, but this park has great open spaces. We always see families here or locals walking their dogs and feeding cats. Just beyond the sculpture park is a very nice beach. Day Trips from Hagi Hagi is not the easiest town to get to. They do have a train station but it’s small and generally only connects the western towns. Japan doesn’t have a whole lot of trains running east to west, they mainly run north to south. If you look at a map of Japan, most cities are on the Eastern portion of the country facing the Pacific Ocean. After exploring both coasts, I do have to say I like the coast along western Japan facing the Sea of Japan. It seems more rugged, beautiful, and less touristy to me. I’m getting off track. One of the main draws to Hagi is its location and access to many attractions located along the coast. Jill and I took a road trip when we were restricted to our Prefecture and got to see a lot of this area, here are some of the attractions we stopped at that are within a short trip from Hagi. Unrinji Cat Temple About 30 minutes from Hagi is the Unrinji Cat Temple. Surprise, surprise this was on Jill’s to do list, so we had to make a brief stop here. The temple is off the beaten path, but the drive to the temple was gorgeous. One would think a cat temple would be flooded with our furry feline friends, but the cats were more in the form of wooden and stone sculptures. The entrance had a staircase full of beckoning cats. There are around a thousand cat statues in and around the temple. On normal non-Covid years, the inside is open but due to the virus the inside was closed to visitors, at least when we visited. We didn’t see any real kitties at all, but I saw signs of cats living here. It was cute seeing all the cat statues and other decorations resembling cats.  Hornfels Jill and I both got our Open Water SCUBA certificate last year and took our open water courses at Hornfels. Hornfels is about 40 minutes north of Hagi. If Scuba Diving is not on your itinerary, Horfels offers hiking trails around the cliffs and observation points looking over the Sea of Japan. For Scuba diving, there is a great access point here. We dove down to about 60ft, and saw coral and various fish species. Around August time frame the water was clear but I was told it’s not ideal to dive here during the winter months.  Motonosumi Inari Shrine About a 45 minute drive south from Hagi, is the Motonosumi Inari Shrine and perhaps considered to be Yamaguchi’s most iconic landmark. Anytime you see a tourist visitor center or train station you will see travel advertisements of all these red Torii gates leading up to the coast. It’s actually a magnificent area and very popular, meaning it gets crowded. When we were here, the parking lot was almost full, there must have been a hundred people here. There are no big temples here, instead there are 123 Torii Gates that follow a foot path toward a rocky cliff overlooking the ocean.  Tsunoshima Another iconic Yamaguchi attraction is the long and scenic bridge toward Tsunoshima. A little over an hours drive from Hagi, visitors come from all over Japan to see the gorgeous 1.7 Km long bridge. “Shima” means Island in Japanese by the way. Once across the bridge, there are many activities to do on the small island, like camping, fishing, snorkeling, hiking, and visiting sites like the Tsunoshima Lighthouse and various temples scattered throughout the island. Although on the smaller side, Hagi boosts a lot of tourists from around Japan due to its rich history, UNESCO sites, and access to other attractions and landmarks. Hagi is a bit off the beaten path and not easy to get to, especially for the common visitor to Japan that fly’s into Tokyo. I guess, we’ve been lucky to live in Yamaguchi and have had the chance to visit Hagi more then once. It amazes me that so many towns Jill and I have visited while living here are unheard of to the rest of the world. Prior to living here, I’ve never heard of Hagi but now I highly recommend visitors go out of their way to travel to Southern Japan and visit Hagi and other sites and attractions outlined in this post. 

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Dining and Eating our way through Japan

This is going to be a long post, but there is a lot to cover when it comes to dining out, etiquette, and eating food in Japan both at home and local restaurants. Jill and I have been in Japan well over a year now, I have her beat by a few months. Nonetheless, we both love Japanese food and the whole eating culture here. We’ve learned so much about proper Japanese dining here and types of food. Believe it or not, the Japanese do eat a lot of other stuff that is not just Sushi. Sure, the sushi is amazing here, but there is so much more! Unfortunately, a lot of our favorite dishes are unheard of in the States, like Okonomiyaki. Surprisingly there are a ton of Indian and Italian restaurants in Japan. The Indian restaurants are some of our favorites as the Naan bread is delicious! You won’t find better Naan bread then in Japan. We live off-base and do about 95% of our grocery shopping at local grocery stores. We do a fair amount of cooking in our tiny apartment kitchen. In this post, I’ll outline some proper restaurant and eating etiquettes while dining in Japan, shopping at grocery stores, eating at home, and some of our favorite dishes. Restaurants and Dining in Japan For first time visitors in Japan, it can seem quite confusing to find a restaurant, order, sit down, pay, and leave. There are restaurants all over the place, but they are not as noticeable as they are in other parts of the world. I’ve walked by restaurants everyday that I had no idea even existed until someone pointed it out.  Restaurants here generally excel in one dish. You go to a ramen restaurant, or sushi restaurant. There are very few places like Chili’s where you can get a sandwich one day, a plate of nachos the next day, and a slab of ribs after that. You go to a ramen place here and that is what they serve. I mean they will have some sides like gyoza or fried rice, but the main dish will be ramen. Another difference is the size of the restaurants. For the most part they are on the smaller side. I’m talking like a couple tables in a restaurant and maybe some stools lined up in front of the kitchen. I’ve been to several places that have room for six people and the chef’s are literally right behind you cooking. For the most part, you will find small mom and pop restaurants and they are usually the best.  In Japan, you typically pay for your meal after you eat like most places. But here, once you finish your meal, you just get up and walk to the counter and pay, in cash usually. Credit Card is not widely used here. Another thing we love about dining in Japan, is that tables will have a pitcher of ice water and cups. You serve your own water. This eliminates the annoying waitress like in the States that comes to the table every 5 minutes asking how everything is. The best part of all is there is NO tipping here. Employees actually make a living wage in the restaurant industry, so your final bill is what you pay, there is no trying to figure out what 20% of the bill is to tip or anything. Some people might think I am rude for saying this, but I hate tipping in America. We are expected to tip 20%, to me that is another beer or appetizer. I always tip that amount, but if you don’t you get a rude stare from the waiter. Would be nice if restaurants paid for their employees so we wouldn’t have to, no wonder why restaurants are thriving. I agree with the reason why Japanese don’t tip, they feel you are judging them based on their performance, which is 100% true, rant over.  No forks and knives here. While dining in Japan, we eat with Hashi (chopsticks). Even ramen is eaten with chopsticks. Prior to moving to Japan, I used chopsticks at home on occasion. I enjoy eating with them as it is at a slower pace, makes you feel like your are working more for your food.  Some restaurants will have a meal ticket machine by the front, kind of like a vending machine. You put money in the machine, and select what you want. Usually there are pictures on the buttons for us foreigners. The machine will print out tickets which you then hand over to the chef.  Most restaurants have Western style tables and chairs to sit at, although there are many traditional restaurants that still have you sit on the floor, this is always a fun experience. These arrangements will have a short table on the floor with cushions for everybody to sit on. In most cases the floor will be a tatami mat which is a traditional rice straw floor material. There are even restaurants that have this style of traditional seating but have a hole in the floor for your legs. No matter what, always take off your shoes if you are sitting on the floor.  Types of Restaurants and Dishes Earlier, I mentioned that Japanese restaurants generally specialize in one dish or style of food. Most people are already familiar with sushi and ramen, but there are many other restaurants that can be found throughout Japan. Below are some restaurant styles that I have become familiar with while living in Japan.  Curry – I always thought curry was strictly an Indian dish, but it is extremely popular in Japan and they have their own variety. There are many restaurants like Coco’s and 100 Hour Curry that specialize in Japanese curry. Japanese curry is usually sweeter then Indian curry and not as spicy. It is usually eaten with traditional food items like tonkatsu, fried chicken, or mixed with noodles. Fried Chicken (Karaage) – I don’t know what they do with their chicken here but it is phenomenal. I never ate that much fried chicken, but it’s addicting here. I even love the fried chicken at the convenience stores here. You can find it everywhere, a lot of restaurants have it as a main course. The meat is always juicy and the breading is light but not as greasy. Izakaya – Izakaya is a Japanese version of a pub. These pubs usually serve small meals like tapas and offer beer on tap and mixed drinks. Okonomiyaki – My post on Hiroshima has an extensive section on okonomiyaki. I will keep this short, but okonomiyaki has become one of our favorite meals here in Japan. Prior to coming here, I’ve never even heard of this dish. They call it a Japanese pancake, but I feel it’s very misleading. In short, there are two styles of okonomiyaki, Hiroshima and Osaka style. The Hiroshima style takes the ingredients and layers it while the Osaka style mixes the ingredients together in a bowl before cooking it. I prefer the Hiroshima style by far although the Osaka style is very good. Okonomiyaki is cooked on a flat grill, for the Hiroshima style, a thin layer of a pancake like batter is spread thinly, then ingredients (noodles, lettuce, bean sprouts, bacon) are layered on top. The dish is flipped over on an egg and then served with other toppings of your choosing. I usually get mine with seafood (octopus, shrimp, and squid). Okonomiyaki is an experience in itself. Most places have chairs right at the grill, so the chef just slides the dish in front of you to begin eating! Okonomiyaki is our comfort food. Ramen – I could and I might write a post just on ramen. Ramen restaurants are abundant in Japan. There are probably a dozen at least in Iwakuni. Ramen is a regional dish and each region has a claim to fame. Personally, I like tonkotsu ramen the best. Tonkotsu ramen was first made in Fukuoka and it is a rich and creamy pork broth as a result of boiling pork bones in water for long periods of time. There are other styles of Ramen throughout Japan to include shio ramen which is salt based, shoyu (soy sause based), and miso (soybean paste). I’ve also had garlic ramen, spicy ramen, ramen in wild boar broth with yuzu, you name it. The ramen will generally come with green onions, chashu (slices of pork belly), bean sprouts, a seasoned egg, and seaweed.  Shabu-Shabu – A Japanese style hot pot. At restaurants, a large pot sits in the middle of the table and is filled with a broth. Most shabu-shabu places we go to have a divided pot so two types of broths can be used. The easy way to describe this is that you get thinly sliced meats and vegetables and drop them in the hot broth until cooked. The Shabu-Shabu restaurants we’ve been to are buffet style. You get a time limit generally 60 or 90 minutes, and they bring out as much meat as you order. There is a counter full of vegetables, salads, and dipping sauces that is all included with the meal. Shabu-Shabu is a great for large gatherings and is a very fun way to cook food. Soba – Soba is a buckwheat noodle. This is kind of like a pasta noodle we are all familiar with and looks similar to spaghetti. Soba is usually used in ramen and okonomiyaki. Sushi – Sushi is just as popular here in Japan as it is in the United States. Iwakuni alone has at least 3 conveyor belt sushi restaurants and there are probably over a dozen small sushi restaurants. Sushi is basically a small amount of rice prepared with vinegar accompanied by another ingredient such as seaweed or fish. There are several types of sushi. A few examples are Nigiri (rice balls with fish or other meats on top), Maki (Rice and other ingredients wrapped in seaweed), and uramaki (rice surrounds the seaweed and other ingredients). As much as a foodie as I am, I prefer Nigiri sushi and am not a huge fan of the other styles.  Here in Japan, there are traditional sushi restaurants, where the chef prepares fresh sushi in front of your eyes and serves it to you on a small plate. It is pretty common to find conveyor belt sushi restaurants. There are a few chains here that are popular because they sell 100 Yen or $1 sushi plates. The concept is easy, the chef’s are in the back preparing dishes and they set the plate on a conveyor belt which runs through the restaurant. Customers can simply grab the plate off the conveyer belt. Many restaurants will have color coded plates which determines the price of the sushi. At the end the waiter will come and count the number of plates to ring up the order.   [envira-gallery id=”3238″] Takoyaki – This dish is more of an appetizer or popular street food dish. Takoyaki is an octopus ball. The dish starts with a batter filled with minced octopus and is cooked in a special pan that gives it a ball shape. The octopus balls are then served with a takoyaki sauce, mayonaise, and a dried fish shaving.  Tempura – Basically just fried food. But the Japanese have mastered fried food. There are tempura restaurants and street vendors that deep fry seafood, meats, and vegetables here. Tempura can be served as a main dish, a side, or even in soup. Tonkatsu – Kind of like a German schnitzel, tonkatsu is a breaded deep fried pork cutlet. Tonkatsu is pretty popular here and there are restaurants that specialize in this dish. Udon – A very thick wheat flour noodle. I find Udon to be one of the more unique and tasty types of noodles here. Udon is usually eaten in a soup form. Yakiniku – Similar to a Korean BBQ, Yakiniku is a fun experience where customers cook their

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What to See and Do in Hiroshima City

What comes to mind when you think of Hiroshima, Japan? For most people, it would be World War II and becoming the first city ever to be targeted by a nuclear weapon. I had the exact same thoughts, I knew absolutely nothing about Hiroshima other then the event that took place on August 6 1945. I’ve been to Hiroshima at least a dozen times now, and have fallen in love with this city. Hiroshima has a dark past, the events that took place here will never be forgotten. But at the same time, Hiroshima has become a modern and fun city that is home to great museums, lovely gardens, ancient temples, and quite possibly my favorite food in all of Japan. This post outlines all things Hiroshima, including what to see and do in Hiroshima City along with what to eat and where to get some of the best food Hiroshima has to offer.  August 6, 1945 August 6, 1945, this date will be chiseled in your memory after visiting Hiroshima especially after visiting the Peace Memorial Museum. So what happened on this date? It’s a date that forever changed the world and warfare. An American B-29 Bomber dropped an atomic bomb over the city of Hiroshima in hopes of ending the war.  Hiroshima was the primary target in the first attack. The B-29 Bomber (The Enola Gay) took off on that day from Tinian Island which is a part of the Northern Mariana Islands equipped with “Little Boy,” the code name given to the atomic bomb. At approximately 8:15 am the bomb was dropped and detonated about 580 m (1900 ft), above the city of Hiroshima. The Aioi Bridge was the planned target but due to crosswinds it shifted and detonated right above the Shima Hospital. 70,000 people were immediately killed while another 70,000 were killed days, months, and years later due to their injuries and effects of radiation, those counts are most likely much higher. On August 15,  Japan surrendered.  Attractions and Monuments Related to the War Hypo Center – The hypo center is the exact location on the ground where the bomb detonated from above. Today, there is a plaque here marking the location (Coordinates for the hypo center: 34.3947865,132.452522).  A-Bomb Dome The most notable and famous building in all of Hiroshima is the Atomic Bomb Dome. The A-Bomb Dome was originally known as the Hiroshima Prefectural Commercial Exhibition Hall and was used to show and sell commercial goods for the area. When the bomb was dropped on Hiroshima, all people within the A-Bomb Dome died instantly.  The A-Bomb Dome was close to the hypo center and yet it was not completely destroyed. The citizens of Hiroshima decided to keep the building as is as a reminder. In 1996, the A-Bomb Dome was listed as a UNESCO Site.    Peace Memorial Park In between the A-Bomb Dome and Museum, visitors can find the Peace Memorial Park. This Park is beautifully designed and created as a reminder and way to remember all the victims that passed away due to the effects of the atomic bomb.    Peace Memorial Museum – One of the best museums I’ve been to. This one is up there with the World War I Museum in Kansas City. The entrance fee is only ¥200 which is like $2. This museum usually hits hard, it’s terribly sad. I like the museum because it doesn’t talk about how bad the enemy is and point fingers, instead it reflects on the people who lived here during the time of the bombing. It has a lot of touching stories about both survivors and innocents who lost their lives. For more information, you can view the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum Website.  Honkawa Elementary School – The skeletal remains of this Elementary School still exist and have been turned into a museum. This was the closest school to the hypocenter at 410 meters away. During the time of the bombing, there was one principal here, 10 staff workers, and about 400 students. Sadly, only one student and one teacher survived the bombing.  Bank of Japan – The Bank of Japan was the second best preserved building after the A-Bomb Dome. Unfortunately, all 42 people working here that day were killed during the blast. Surprisingly, the bank was back in business just two days after the bomb.  Must See Sites and Attractions Around Hiroshima City There is a lot more to see and do in Hiroshima then visiting all the WWII sites. Hiroshima is huge and although most sites are located within walking distance of the city center, some attractions are further out and best reached by bicycle or other means of transportation. If you are only visiting for a day or two and wondering what to see and do in Hiroshima, below are my recommendations and must see attractions in Hiroshima.  Tour Hiroshima Castle Hiroshima Castle can be found in the heart of the city, just north of the Peace Memorial Park. Originally built in 1589, it was destroyed by the bomb blast in 1945. This castle is unique as it is built on a plain or flat ground surrounded by a moat instead of being perched on a hilltop. The 5-story keep has since been rebuilt and is now a museum. There is a ¥370 fee to enter the castle but the grounds are free to roam.  Do Some Window Shopping on Hondori Hondori is the arcade style shopping street in Hiroshima. Almost every major town in Japan has a Shotengai or arcade style shopping street. The Shotengai are generally pedestrians walkways that are covered and lined with fun shops and restaurants on both sides. The Hondori street in Hiroshima is always lively and full of fun shops and delicious restaurants. Some shops we always have to stop in while here are Daiso (¥100 store), Country Cat, and Cresson for souvenirs. Check out Mitaki Temple, One of my Favorite Temples in Japan Mitaki Temple is one of my favorite temples in all of Japan. It is so tranquil, peaceful, and beautiful, I fell in love with this place instantly. The Buddhist temple here dates back to the year 809. There is a two story pagoda here that was gifted to Mitaki from Wakayama as a memorial to the victims of the bomb. This temple complex host three waterfalls and other temples, structures, and statues. There is a small trail here, well worth a hike. The moss covered statues, temples surrounded by forests, and feeling of being secluded meanwhile a huge city is just a few minutes away are all why I love coming to Mitaki Temple.  Relax and Take in the Beauty at Shukkien A beautiful Japanese Garden in the heart of the city. This garden dates back to the 1600’s and still showcases a lot of historical features like the tea houses. The garden has a trail that loops around a large pond. There is a small hill here that is based on Mt. Fuji, walk to the top for the best views of the park. While walking the perimeter of the pond, pay attention to the turtles and Koi Fish as they are abundant. There is a tree here that is said to be the only remaining tree that was still standing after the bomb.  Why not Check Out Costco and Try a Bulgogi Bake Sorry, I just had to throw Costco in here. Although many people probably won’t visit Costco when they tour Hiroshima, this is more of a place to visit for people living in the area. The Costco in Hiroshima is basically the same as everywhere else. It is full of electronics, home work out equipment, outdoor accessories, and free food samples! We come here once in a while mainly to load up on muffins and bagels. The Costco even has a food court like in the States where you can get a huge slice of pizza or a hotdog and drink for 150 Yen. The biggest draw for me here is their Bulgogi Bake. I believe the States has a Chicken Bake, which I believe I’ve tried once. But the Bulgogi Bake is far superior. We usually get one to go and head toward the train station.  Catch a Hiroshima Carp Game Baseball is huge in Japan. You see baseball everywhere whether it be local games at the park, or fathers and sons playing catch in their driveways. I’m not sure what the craze is as I’m not crazy about baseball. But Hiroshima does have a Baseball team called the Hiroshima Carp and they are huge in the area. Next to Costco is their giant stadium. When there are home games in Hiroshima, almost the entire city is dressed in red with their Carp jerseys. You can catch a lot of fans at Costco before the game, chowing down and getting their shopping done.  Visit a Cat Cafe Hiroshima has a few cat and animal cafes. On our Shimanami Kaido trip, we strolled past this café and saw the most fluffy and adorable kitty in the window. It was closed at the time, so we made sure to bookmark this place and come back at a future date. Eventually we came back to the cat café, known as Neco Republic and had a blast here hanging out and playing with the cats. The fluff monster we saw in the window was there, although he got a nice new haircut. The café was was a memorable experience, we felt they loved the cats and took good care of them.  Don’t Miss Out on Shopping at Don Quijote Sensory Overload! I’ve never seen a store like Don Quijote and to be honest it is hard to explain what this store is except to tell people it is a 5 story building that has everything you can thin of, it’s super loud, and crowded with items from the floor to the ceiling! This is one of the best places to come to though for fun seasonal candies and liquor. My favorite liquor is a German beverage called Kleiner Feigling. I’ve never found this in the states, but am happy to say that Don Quijote carries it. Not only to they carry the original one but they have several other flavors. There is this lichi drink to I found here called Dita which is also very good. We come to Don Quijote to load up on drinks, but to also find dun seasonal Kit-Kats. Generally everything in the store is pretty cheap, it’s just fun to come here and look around. Hiroshima Food Scene Hiroshima is definitely a food destination. I feel it is one of the more underrated cities in Japan when it comes to food. After all, one of my favorites comes from here, Okonomiyaki. This is their claim to fame, but there are so many other cuisines from all around the world that can be tasted and enjoyed throughout the city.  Okonomiyaki Okonomiyaki! Now, I consider this dish one of my favorites. Prior to Japan, I’ve never even heard of this dish. How has this dish not made its way around the world? In the Hiroshima area, Okonomiyaki is everywhere, it is like a Japanese comfort food.  Okonomiyaki can be found throughout Japan but the cities of Hiroshima and Osaka claim to have the best style. I’ve had both and personally I like Hiroshima style hands-down! So what is Okonomiyaki and what are the differences? People say Okonomiyaki translates to Pancake – as you like it. But I disagree, it’s nothing like a pancake that you and I think of. The only resemblance to a pancake is that there is a small layer of batter at the bottom and the Osaka style one looks kind of like a pancake. Okonomiyaki is basically a mix of ingredients (eggs, cabbage, bean sprouts, bacon, noodles, green onion, cheese, and seafood if desired). The Osaka style mixes all the ingredients together while the Hiroshima style layers them. In Osaka,

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Cycling the Shimanami Kaido

Since moving to Japan in 2019, Cycling the Shimanami Kaido has been high on my to-do list. Prior to moving here, I’ve never heard of the Shimanami Kaido cycle route, but as I started going to bike shops and talking to other cyclist, I started to hear more and more about Cycling the Shimanami Kaido.  The Shimanami Kaido is both an expressway for vehicles and route for cyclists that connects the cities of Onomichi on the main island of Honshu and Imabari on the island of Shikoku. The route crosses six smaller islands (Oshima, Hakatajima, Omishima, Ikuchijima, Innoshima, and Mukaishima) within the Seto Inland Sea. The cycle path is completely separate from the expressway and is approximately 70 kilometers (43 miles) from start to finish. The cycle route is brilliantly designed with cyclists and pedestrians in mind. The path was well marked and maintained. Each island had a standard route and an explorer route, the explorer route hit all the landmarks and attractions, while the standard route followed the most direct path across the islands. Six large and relatively modern bridges connected each island, and a network of rollercoaster like roads led to a slight incline before the bridge and a fun downward spiral after the bridge linking to the trails to the next island. The only tough cycling was the inclines leading up toward the bridges, otherwise the rest of the route was semi flat and easy going. Any cyclist no matter what skill level can accomplish the entire length of the Shimanami Kaido. Cycling the Shimanami Kaido Our day began at 6:00 am, in the Japanese town of Imabari, located on the island of Shikoku. We  strapped on our biking gear and set forth for one of Japans most popular biking experiences. Imabari, has blue arrows along the street marking the way to the Shimanami Kaido,  The blue markers  were magical, as we didn’t really have to stop  and pull out our phones to check for directions, the markers appeared every kilometer.  We followed the path onto the first suspension bridge the Kurushima-Kaikyo Bridge (4,105 m).  All the bridges had a large sidewalk for bikes and pedestrians next to the road except for the Innoshima Bridge, the cycle route was underneath the  actual road.  Oshima Island, was the first of six islands. Since this was our first time on this trail, we decided to stay on the standard route. We stopped at a local grocery store for necessary pastries and coffee and found a nice seating area along the route. Along the entire route there were many pull off areas that included scenic overlooks and places to sit. After breakfast we crossed the next bridge the Hakata-Oshima Bridge (1,165 m) to Hakatajima Island. There was not a whole lot to see or do on this island so we peddled forward toward the next island. After crossing the Omishima Bridge (328 m), we arrived on the island of Omishima. Omishima is the largest of the six islands, there was an explorer route here that went along the coast but we opted to stay on the normal route toward Ikuchijima Island. Before leaving Omishima Island there is a great rest stop before the bridge that has a restaurant, vending machines, restrooms, and beautiful views of the Tatara Bridge (1,480 m).  Ikuchi-jima actually had attractions along the explorer route we were interested in. On Ikuchi-jima was the famous Kousanji Temple. This temple was created in 1936 by Kanemoto Kozo following the death of his mother. Kanemoto Kozo built this temple in honor of his beloved mother. His mother is buried at temple’s 5-storied pagoda. Other sites here are the main gate which is a model based on the Imperial Palace in Kyoto and the Koyomon Gate which resembles the Yomeimon Gate at the Toshugu Shrine in Nikko. There is a 15 meter tall statue of Kannon here and the Hill of Hope which is a which is a white marble garden. Below are some photos of the Kousanji Temple and Marble Garden. After visiting the Kousanji Temple, it was pretty much smooth sailing to Onomichi. We followed the standard routes on the next couple islands all the way to the town of Onomichi on Honshu. The last bridge, the Innoshima Bridge (1,270 m) was my favorite. It connected the islands of Innoshima and Mukaishima but this bridge had the route underneath the actual street. So instead of riding along cars and trucks like the other bridges, there was an entire bike lane below the roads which was quite fun! As we followed the markers along the Shimanami Kaido we finally made it to Mukaishima Island, which was the last island. There is no bridge linking this island to Honshu, so a quick 5 minute ferry ride was necessary. The ferry ride was only 110 yen per person with bike. Once we arrived in the city of Onomichi, this wrapped up the famous Shimanami Kaido. We did it in one day, 70 kilometers (43 miles).  The photos below include: – Our Bikes and the Tatara Bridge in the Background – Biking underneath the Innoshima Bridge -View of a small island taken from the Oshima Island -View of the Tatara Bridge from a rest area the Shimanami Kaido is the Easy Part, You Have to get There First! There are a few ways to get to the Shimanami Kaido area. You can drive to either Onomichi or Imabari, park your car and do the Shimanami Kaido one way and come back. One can also take a train to one city ride the Shimanami Kaido and take a train back. As a reminder, Japan does not allow bikes on public trains. The only way to take a bike on a train is if it is in a bag. Many bike shops around Japan have various sized bags to fit bikes of all shapes and sizes. If bringing a bike is not an option, there are bike rental companies in the area. There is a third option, which is what Jill and I opted for. Heck, my dream was to ride the Shimanami Kaido, why not bike there and turn it into a nearly week long adventure. We lived in a town called Iwakuni, which is on the Island of Honshu about 40km south of Hiroshima. There really is no direct way to get to the island of Shikoku. There are a few massive bridges (tolls cost and arm and a leg) and a couple ferry routes connecting Honshu with Shikoku.  We set forth on Election Day, November 3rd, 2020 hoping to escape the news coverage and craziness of the years election and rode our bikes to the ferry terminal 30 km (18.6 miles) located in Yanai, Yamaguchi. Yamaguchi is one of the Prefectures of Japan. In total we rode through three Prefectures (Ehime, Hiroshima, and Yamaguchi). We purchased tickets for both us and our bikes and lounged in the ferry for 2.5 hours before reaching our next destination, Matsuyama on Shikoku. By the way, the ferry was an amazing experience, it felt like we were riding on a luxury ship, it had nice seats, open floors for people to lay down on or for families with children, and even had a Cup Noodle vending machine. We hung out in Matsuyama the rest of the day. Matsuyama is the largest city on the island of Shikoku and has a rich history. The Matsuyama Castle (completed in 1627) sits atop a very steep hill. The castle is one of Japan’s 12 original castles. After a night in Matsuyama our next destination was to bike through the mountains toward Imabari. In total we biked 63 km (39.3 miles). My friend Kimball recommended we check out a towel museum near Imabari. Anywhere else, a towel museum would be a major let down, but it’s Japan and everything here is fun and exciting so we had to stop. According to their website the museum is the first of its kind displaying the art of making towels. We got to walk through the factory, check out art displays and quilts made from towels, see an exhibit on Moomin which is a hippopotamus looking creature, and there was even an exhibit on Winnie the Pooh and Friends. Overall, we enjoyed the towel museum, Thanks for the recommendation, Kimball! Afterwards, we only had a few more kilometers to go before reaching the town of Imabari. We arrived in Imabari in the evening, just enough time to visit the Imabari Castle and grab a bite to eat.  Imabari Castle is considered one of three “Great Water Castles,” because the water in the moat comes directly from the sea. You can find salt water fish in the moat. Originally, Imabari Castle was built in 1602. During the Meiji Restoration, Imabari Castle, like many other castles were abandoned and taken apart. The main keep seen in the photos below was built in 1980. Imabari Castle Main Keep Day three was the main event, Cycling the Shimanami Kaido! In total we rode about 78.8 km (48.9 miles) from Imabari to Onomichi. Onomichi is a port city, popular for it’s temples and Cat Alley. Obviously, Cat Alley was priority, so we climbed a steep set of stairs to visit our feline friends. Cat Alley was a bit odd, seemed like what we would call a shanty town on a hill side, none the less we saw kitties, they were adorable. There is a café at the corner that has a real owl that gazes out the window, it was neat! Onomichi is known for their ramen. The place we stayed overnight, recommended a Ramen joint called Ramen Matatabi. The owner was friendly and spoke a little English. The ramen broth consisted of fish, chicken, and wild boar, which is very unique and the owner grated yuzu (citrus fruit, kind of like a lemon) over it for a nice citrus flavor. The pictures below are random ones taken around Onomichi.  Owl Looking Out the Window The next morning was the longest day, we were to ride from Onomichi to Hiroshima 112 km (69 miles). Right by our hotel was a bakery, it was delicious and a perfect way to start the day. For the most part, the route followed the coastline to Hiroshima, we made a brief stop in a town called Takehara, to check out their historic downtown area and to take a breather. Afterwards, we peddled on to Hiroshima. I would say, Hiroshima is a fantastic city for cycling. All the sidewalks here were very wide. After cycling all day, we were both exhausted and hungry. Being in Hiroshima, we had to try out a new okonomiyaki restaurant, we found a great place called Hassei.  Our final day was an easy one, we rode our bikes from Hiroshima to Iwakuni, 42 km (26miles). Before cycling back home we had breakfast at the hotel. The hotel had a traditional Japanese breakfast which usually consists of a salad, pickled veggies, miso soup, eggs, and a small piece of chicken and fish. Not your typical American style breakfast and it does take getting used to but we always enjoy it! Up until our last day we had gorgeous weather, fortunately for us it held out until the very last day where it drizzled the entire time. We cycled through the rest of Hiroshima, passed Miyajima, and finally made it home to Iwakuni!  In total we biked 334.45 km (207.82 miles). I’m proud of Jill as she made it the entire time without walking her bike up any hills! I highly recommend traveling by bike as you tend to see and experience more not to mention you are getting in a great exercise. I always think the more calories I burn the more fun food I get to eat! We stopped at the wonderful convenience stores and/or grocery stores for snacks. For lunch we usually grabbed meals from grocery stores which are phenomenal in Japan, and dinner we would always find

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10 Things I Love About Japan

We’ve lived in Japan going on three years now and there are characteristics here that are simply unique to Japan. Obviously, there are more then 10 things I love about Japan but the list would be incredibly long. I came up with this top ten list based on day to day aspects that truly make living in Japan fun and exciting!  Cleanliness Japan is incredibly clean. You rarely see trash on the side of the streets. On mainland, I think I’ve seen graffiti only a handful of times. You can go to a city like Hiroshima or Fukuoka, well over a population of 1 million and the cities are almost spotless. The streets are clean, the paint on them is almost like they’ve never been touched, it’s fascinating. Even the pigeons here are in pristine condition. I’ve never seen such clean and healthy pigeons in my life. The cleanliness might have something do to with how they recycle here or just the way the Japanese have grown up. The most fascinating thing about the cleanliness of Japan is that there are hardly any trash cans around. You could walk for an hour and not find a single trash can. I guess everyone here is just good at packing out their trash. To me, a clean city is just refreshing, it is nice to know that people care and actually make an effort to make their city clean and trash free!   Convenience Stores Convenience Stores can be found in any country throughout the world. But the stores here in Japan are much different then any other convenience stores I’ve been to. For starters, people here rely on convenience stores. I say this because people come to them for lunch and dinner, use the ATM’s, pickup mail, and purchase almost anything else one can find at any store, it is pretty amazing! We have 7-Eleven in Japan, but without the pumps, it’s simply a convenience store. My favorite items at the convenient stores are their treats! Many times, you can find great seasonal chocolates here, really good pastries and pre-made meals, and warm fresh food at the counter. The food is not your typical hot dog and taquito that has been spinning around all day. At the 7-Eleven in Japan, you can find chicken on a stick, various types of fried chicken, steam buns, and even soups. At first, I really only went to convenience stores once in a while, now I find myself here often, especially on road trips!  English Translations I’m not sure how companies do their English translations here. Many products here are professional products with legit labels, yet the English translations sometimes make zero sense. It is actually a hobby of mine to look at product labels and signs just to read the English translations. Jill and I always joke around that she should get a job (she has an English degree) in Japan and translate the product phrases to something a little more readable. Below are a few of my favorite English translations I’ve found so far while in Japan.  “Keep Out, Do Not Enter, a Flower is Growing“ “Because you are slippery, and this inside is dangerous, please do not enter“ “It will enjoy to cooking because hardly stick and very light“ “It is always walking on business everyday, and it gets tired“ “ParadiseCat – A pretty holiday in a cat is full of fun“ Hotels I love staying at hotels, but I really love staying in Japanese hotels. In the States, you know what to expect when you arrive at your hotel, they all have the same layout and amenities. In Japan, almost every one is different and unique. They all have amazing bathrooms, some have very little space while others are the size of an apartment, there really is no telling. Every hotel I’ve stayed at, the room comes with awesome items to use and take home. Some items include slippers, robes, brushes, toothbrushes/toothpaste,  and  razors. We have a pile of these items in our home, they make for great amenities for guests. Hotels are considerably cheaper as well. It’s rare to pay over $100 for a night stay.  If you come to Japan, try and find a hotel that serves breakfast. The breakfasts are usually buffet style and come with a lot of traditional and western style food options like eggs. The breakfasts also include Japanese items like eel and other fish, potato salad, various types of noodles, rice, and even soups. You can also find Pod Hotels in all the big cities.  I stayed at one in Osaka and it was a wonderful experience. There were 4 pods in one room. The pods are actually quite comfortable and spacious, each one was equipped with a shelf, light, and even a safe.  Manhole Covers As if Japan does not have enough fun things! Another great past time of mine, especially when visiting new cities is to look for their manhole covers. The manhole covers here vary from city to city, and usually reflect the city in some way. As an example, Iwakuni is famous for the Kintai Bridge, so the bridge is the main focus on the manhole cover. Hiroshima has a popular baseball team known as the Carp, so some of their manhole covers have the Carp mascot on them. It is estimated that in Japan there are 6,000 unique manhole covers. Apparently in 1985 some high ranking individual allowed each municipality to design and create their own manhole cover. Since local taxpayers are paying for them, might as well make them at least appealing to the city.  There are even Pokémon manhole covers that can be found throughout certain prefectures of Japan.  Below are some of the manholes we’ve found around Japan.  Nature When you think of Japan, I guarantee that nature is not what pops up in your mind. When I thought of Japan, I automatically thought of Tokyo and other huge concrete jungles full of crowds, lights, and technology. I could not have been more wrong about Japan. Japan is an island and 70% of the country is mountainous, stretching from northern Hokkaido to the southern tip of Kyushu. Most of the major cities are located on the eastern side of Japan near the coasts. Between the east and west coast of Japan is mountains and forests. I still can’t believe how much nature is here in Japan. Agriculture exists, but in small quantities. It is not like other places where entire states are almost set up for agriculture. Here, you will find local farmers throughout the prefectures that have small and sustainable farms. Japan should be world famous for their hiking and outdoor activities. In central Honshu, there is an area known as the Japanese Alps because of their resemblance to the famous European Alps. If you get tired of mountains, Japan is an island so ocean surrounds it on all sides. I think the western side of Japan facing the Sea of Japan has some of the most gorgeous beaches with turquoises water and tropical fish. Not to mention there is the southern prefecture of Okinawa with some of the prettiest beaches on the planet.  Seasonal Items Japan surprised me when I found out you can’t buy things like apples all year long or when you go to the store to get your favorite chocolate and its gone, it wont be available until next year! At first it was frustrating but now I love it. Fruits have their seasons, so grocery stores are stocked with seasonal fruit. Mikan (mandarin oranges) season is a few months out, but once they are in season the stores will be full of them. Now you can find imported oranges that are higher in price. Candy and sweets seem to be seasonal as well. Hazelnut season is not to far out now, I am starting to see hazelnut kit-kats and other sweets that are hazelnut flavored. There will also be orange flavored chocolate come winter time. It is always changing, so if you find a flavor of Kit-Kat or other treat you like, it is probably wise to stock up, because it might not be there tomorrow and you will have to wait another year.  Toilets There is no place else in the world that has toilets like Japan and to be honest it has ruined me, I feel I am to good now for an average western toilet. When I move back to North America or Europe, one of my first purchases will be a Japanese bidet. You can actually install them in your home, as long as you have a plugin. First, let’s start with the traditional Japanese toilet, which I have used but not a huge fan. The traditional toilets are squat toilets, which are still widely used and can be found in most outdoor public spaces. But when you are in a home, store, rest stop, or restaurant, chances are that they have a Japanese style bidet toilet and it is magical. The bidet varies by brand and obviously expense, but for the most part they include the hose that sprays you clean (option for women as well). You can also adjust the temperature of the water that sprays you, warm water is really nice during the winter months. Most bidets will also have a heated seat where the temperature can be adjusted as well. Some of the fancier bidet’s will have more advanced features. Some of the advanced features include an air dryer, so toilet paper is not even necessary. One of the coolest functions I’ve seen, is the bidet will play music or some sort of sound like waterfalls or rain droplets to mask the sound. A little side note, not only are the toilets awesome but the whole bathrooms here are incredible, especially in public spaces. Almost every restroom has a stall with a seat for a child, you can place them here while you take care of business. The handicapped bathroom stalls are impressive as well, they come with a bed and other functions I can’t even begin to explain.  Transportation Growing up in Germany, I got spoiled with public transportation because when I moved to the Midwest, public transportation was non-existent. I knew Japan and other Asian countries were known for their bullet trains and having great transportation, but I never knew how great the system was until I actually moved here.  Most cities in Japan have great train stations. You can use an ICOCA card (prepaid card) to board the train then sit comfortably until you arrive at your destination. Bigger cities have train stations where you literally can spend all day in. They are full of shops, restaurants, and attractions. Taking the local trains say from Iwakuni to Hiroshima is quite convenient, it’s not the cheapest option to get from one place to another but it is fast and easy. Taking the Shinkansen is a whole new animal. The Shinkansen is Japan’s Bullet Train or High Speed Rail. It is impressive, if standing on the train platform and you hear one coming, get your phone ready because it will pass you in the blink of an eye. The train can go 320 km/h or 200 mph. Once inside the train they are so spacious, clean, and quiet. The Shinkansen mainly goes through the country side, so you can stare out the gigantic window and view the beautiful nature Japan has to offer.  Vending Machines Vending machines, another thing where at first I didn’t really rely on, simply because I never used a vending machine in the states. Oh man, they are much different in Japan. In the US, vending machines are pretty much the same everywhere you go and have the same products. In Japan, vending machines are quite the opposite, sure you will find a lot of the same products in various vending machines, but they are so much more fun and enjoyable and the stock rotates constantly. The vending

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Japanese Snow Monkeys and How to Visit

We’ve all seen it, whether you are flipping through pages of a National Geographic magazine or watching a documentary on Animal Planet – the monkeys somewhere in Asia that like to hang out in hot springs during the cold winter months. I’ve known about these monkey’s since I was a child. Honestly, I thought they were high in the mountains somewhere near China or some other country, I had no clue these were Japanese Macaques (Japanese Snow Monkeys) that lived in,  you guessed it…Japan!  When I moved to Japan in 2019, I made it a goal to visit Jigokudani Yaen-Koen, otherwise known as Snow Monkey Park.  **This post contains affiliate links. If you click on one of the links or banners throughout the page, whether it be TripAdvisor, Booking.com. Agoda.com, or any other affiliate, I might receive commission at no extra cost to you. For more information, you can visit my affiliate link page here. Thanks for the support! Japanese Macaques(Japanese Snow Monkeys) Japanese Macaques are not just known as Japanese Snow Monkeys, in fact the ones in Jigokudani Yaen-Koen are the only monkeys known to relax in hot springs. The Japanese Macaques can be found throughout the country of Japan from the northern tip of Honshu to Japan’s southern island of Kyushu. Other then humans, the Japanese Macaque is the northern most primate in the world. Japan, especially northern Japan can get very cold and can endure a lot of snow. The Japanese Snow Monkeys have adapted to this climate by growing long and thick coats of fur to last the winter. During the winter, they huddle together for warmth high in the trees and scavenge for food during the daylight hours.  The monkeys we know that enter the Onsen (hot springs) is somewhat a new phenomena and secluded to one valley, the Yokoyu River Valley, in the Shiga National Park located in the Japan’s Nagano Prefecture.  How Jigokudani Yaen-Koen Became a National Park Jigokudani Yaen-Koen opened in 1964. It was never meant to be an onsen for monkeys. I read that the onsen was man-made for the intent of a resort, but once complete a rather un-ordinary guest appeared to be relaxing in the warm waters. Ever since then, travelers from around the world have come to see the famous Japanese Snow Monkeys soaking it up in the onsen’s. The park itself is not big but it is nicely done and gives both visitors and monkeys space. Upon entering the park, you will most likely see monkeys on the trail, in the hills and trees, and chasing each other in the river and surrounding areas. Obviously, the main attraction is the onsen and seeing the monkeys enjoying it. The monkeys tend to spend the nights in the mountains high up in the trees and come to the onsen during the day, when park officials arrive and set food out for them. Visitors can’t actually get to close to the onsen, there is a divider and somewhat of a platform on the side located slightly above the onsen. But it does offer the best view of the monkeys in the onsen and believe me, you don’t want to get to close to them, generally monkeys are known to be aggressive.  Park Hours and Admission The park is open year round, and the monkeys will be in the area, but winter months is the best chance for seeing them in the onsen. Remember, with all wildlife, the monkeys may not be present at the time. A friend of mine went during mating season and he didn’t see a single monkey.  Summer Months (April through October) – 8:30 – 17:00 Winter Months (November through March) – 9:00 – 16:00 Admission: ¥800 for Adults ¥400 for Children For more information check out the  Jigokudani Yaen-Koen Website. They also have a live camera page, you can check out what the monkeys are up to.  Hiking to and enjoying Snow Monkey Park Some hotels will offer rides to Snow Monkey Park, which is recommended, but they can only get you so far. There is a trailhead here and one must hike to the park entrance. The trail is 1.6 kilometers and can take about 30 minutes to walk. Due to the elevation and weather, the trail can be muddy, snowy, overgrown, etc.. so make sure to dress appropriately and find out ahead of time what the weather is like before attempting the hike. Most likely, there will be monkeys on or off the trail even before the park, so be cautious. Once I saw the first monkey on the trail, I instantly felt like a little kid, I mean it’s not every day you see monkey’s in the wild. Jill and I were watching a group of monkeys chase each other and another group cuddled up together, this was all before even getting to the park. After a few more minutes, we arrived at the park right on time, and were first in line. Go early, after an hour or so the park started filling up, fear not there will be more monkeys then humans here and the way it is set up, you get great views of the park and onsen area. We stayed here for hours just watching the macaques bathe in the onsen and chase each other around the park. There were several babies that were absolutely adorable, it was entertaining watching the little monkeys play and even push each other in the water. Although cute, monkeys are not the nicest of creatures, several fights broke out, most likely over food or territory and they make these screeching noises when agitated that are quite scary. Please, make sure not to touch or pet the monkeys. It seems tempting because they can be inches in front of you or even run into you or jump on your shoulders, remember they are wild animals and should stay wild. After our wonderful experience at Snow Monkey Park, Jill and I walked back to town. There are a few trails that head to town, you can back track the same way or head right outside the park to a trail that cuts through the forest hugging the river. On this trail we ran into one monkey, minding his on business, it was quite funny just walking by him/her and carrying on with our hike.  If I am still in Japan for another year, I definitely plan on revisiting Snow Monkey Park, but will most likely come a month earlier,  as there will be more snow where you can get that iconic shot of the monkey chillin in the onsen with a blanket of snow. We visited the park in March of 2020. This trip was absolutely spectacular and will forever be one of my most memorable trips. Getting Here from Tokyo Jigokudani Yaen-Koen is a world famous attraction and people from around the world come here to see the famous snow monkeys. The Snow Monkey Park is somewhat secluded and does take some planning and travel to get here. Most travelers will likely  fly into Tokyo, so these recommendations are for visitors arriving in Tokyo’s Haneda Airport. From the Haneda Airport Terminal 2, take the Tokyo-Monorail Sub Rapid going toward Hamamatsucho and transfer to the Keihintohoku Line Rapid for Omiya toward Tokyo station. Seems like a mouthful but the whole transit from Haneda to Tokyo Station was about 25 minutes including transfers. Once at Tokyo Station, if time allows it, there are plenty of options to sit down and have a meal and a drink. Nagano, Japan is the biggest city near the Snow Monkey Park, so take the shinkansen (Japan’s High Speed Train) from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station. Once at the Nagano Station, if you are headed directly to Yudanaka (small resort town where the Snow Monkey Park is), take the Zenkoji Temple exit and go to the Nagano Dentetsu Line, here you will enter a slower paced train to Yudanaka. I recommend staying at least a night in Yudanaka, and hiking to the park the very next day, but first enjoy the cute resort town. Yudanaka is home to many beautiful resorts that offer access to several onsens around town.  To sum up how to get to Snow Monkey Park:  Haneda → Tokyo Monorail  to Hamamatsucho → Keihintohoku to Omiya → Tokyo Station → Shinkansen to Nagano → Zenkoji Temple Exit → Nagano Dentetsu Line → Yudanaka Station  Our Hotel I was very much looking forward to visiting the Snow Monkey Park, and it did not disappoint. The whole trip will go down as one of my favorite experiences. Not only was the Snow Monkey Park an amazing experience, but the resort we stayed at made this trip truly memorable. We stayed at the Shibu Hotel, a traditional Japanese hotel with its own onsen. The hotel went above and beyond my expectations. The rooms were all tatami rooms, overlooking the town and surrounding mountains. They even provided both Jill and myself a Yukata (Japanese Robe) and Getas (wooden shoes) for wandering outside at night. The hotel included both breakfast and dinner, the breakfast took some getting used to as it was not the traditional eggs and toast I am used to but the dinner was absolutely phenomenal. Dinner was a multi-course meal, the variety was spectacular and the presentations and flavors were spot on!  The photos below include one of our dinner and the other photo is us dressed up in our Getas.  Additional Snow Monkey Pictures! Enjoying my photos and want to see more? Check out my Picfair Store. 📸   Plan Your Trip: 🗺️✈️🇯🇵  Booking Accommodations ⛺️🛖  For booking recommendations on the best deals and locations, check out Agoda or Booking.com Activities and Tours  🏖️🚁  Find fun activities and things to do through Tripadvisor. If you are looking for tours and day trips, Viator and Get Your Guide have a lot of great options.  In need of a car rental? 🚗🚘  I recommend checking with Rental Cars. Train Travel 🚂🚊  For the JR Pass, tickets can be purchased on the JR Pass site. 

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Nagasaki Lantern Festival

Nagasaki, Japan. To Westerners, one image or thought instantly pops up when discussing the Japanese city of Nagasaki. August 9th, 1945, 3 days after the atomic bomb exploded over the city of Hiroshima, Nagasaki witnessed a similar fate. Fat Man – the name given to the atomic bomb that exploded over Nagasaki, killing around 80,000, ultimately leading to the surrender of Japan 6 days later. Prior to the war, Nagasaki was one of Japans most important and largest trading ports. Because of trade mainly by the Portuguese, Dutch, and Chinese, there are a lot of cultural influences within the city that make Nagasaki a truly unique city worth visiting not to mention they host the Lantern Festival every year around February.  An Early History of Nagasaki Nagasaki started off as a small fishing village on the Japanese island of Kyushu. The first outside visitors to arrive on the shores of Nagasaki were Portuguese explorers in the early 1500’s. Shintoism and Buddhism are the primary religions in Japan and Christianity was non-existent at the time of the first explorers arrival. The Portuguese decided to preach Christianity here before making their way through other areas of Japan. Because of the success of trading, in 1571, the local government decided to open a port here to allow trading with the Portuguese. Soon after, the Dutch and Chinese also found themselves here at the port trading goods. At one point, the Japanese government closed off all ports in Japan except Nagasaki to foreigners, so the city quickly expanded and became one of the more prominent cities in Southern Japan.   The War and How it Shaped Nagasaki It is a shame that World War II and the atomic bomb are what makes Nagasaki so famous. But we can’t deny this, it will forever remain in our history. When you walk around the Peace Park and museum you will see the date August 9, 1945 everywhere. The day the atomic bomb was dropped and leveled the city killing 80,000 people. The B-29 known as Bockscar took off with “Fat Man”, the atomic bomb. The people of Kokura got very lucky that day, as Kokura was the primary target, but due to haze and bad visibility that day, Bockscar flew to Nagasaki, the secondary target. At approximately 10:58 am local time, Fat Man was dropped and exploded 1,640 ft above ground.   Half of the 80,000 people on the ground died instantly, and the rest died  days, weeks, months, years later  of injuries from the blast and radiation.  About 40% of the entire city was completely destroyed.  Because of the bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki, Japan surrendered. Nagasaki and most of Japan has done a tremendous job of rebuilding their city, history, and culture since the war.  Attractions and Sites Nagasaki is not a huge city but has a lot to offer, therefor I suggest spending two days here. There are trams that connect the city and travel frequently so it easy to get from one end to the other relatively quickly.  Atomic Bomb Museum – Museums in Japan are inexpensive, the entrance fee for the Atomic Bomb Museum is 200 Yen. If you are a foreign visitor in Nagasaki, this museum is a must. The museum is not very big but it is informative and of course tragic but it is a part of our history. The museum has a replica of Fat Man and a lot of artifacts that were collect after the bombing along with stories of residents at the time of the bombing.  Peace Park – Not far from the museum is the Peace Park, a place for remembrance. Beautifully laid out and has one of the coolest escalators I’ve seen. Dejima – An Open-Air-Museum, set up to show what the port was like for the Portuguese and Dutch traders. Originally it was an island and made to separate Westerners from the local Japanese. Today, you can freely walk around and explore the buildings. Chinatown – The oldest in Japan and is fairly large. This area is full of restaurants and shops.  Oura Church – Considered the oldest Catholic church in all of Japan and is a UNESCO site. I found the entrance to be very expensive for what it is, 1000 Yen.  Kofukiuji Temple – The oldest Chinese temple in Nagasaki. It was built by a Chinese monk in 1620.  There is a 300 Yen fee to enter the grounds for this temple.  Lantern Festival For a long time, Nagasaki has had residents from China. The famous lantern festival started when they would celebrate the Chinese New Year everywhere. In the year 1994, the city of Nagasaki made it a tradition to turn this into Japan’s largest lantern festival. Since then, every year the lantern festival takes place in Nagasaki on January 1st of the lunar calendar year for fifteen days. During this time period the city sets up over 15,000 lanterns throughout Chinatown and other parts of the city and the celebrations begin! During the 15 days, Chinatown is completely overrun by locals and tourists. All shops and restaurants are open but there are several street vendors and festival areas serving food. Honestly, one of our favorite street foods was a Baked Sea Bream, a cake in the shape of a fish filled with either Red Beans or Custard. After living here in Japan for several months, they tend to put red bean paste in a lot of pastries, it is ok but usually I think it’s chocolate, so it is always a let down, my opinion is go with the custard sea bream. Other then food and drinks, many activities take place daily. You should get a pamphlet with events their location and times. Some of the events that occured were the Emperor’s Parade, Dragon Dance, Lion Dance, Acrobatics, karate, and the changing of the masks (Bian Lian)!  Bian Lian – I was at the Kofukiuji Temple with Jill and Kimball for an event. Unfortunately, Jill told us the wrong time and we ended up at the temple for over an hour waiting for the event. We had no idea what the event was but found seats and the temple was a beautiful backdrop for whatever event was scheduled. All of a sudden, music began to play and a fairly large individual appeared in front of the temple wearing a black outfit with huge feathers and a colorful mask. We had no idea what was happening but the performer danced to the music and all of a sudden snapped his fan and boom, a new mask appeared! How was that possible? Not even a split second and his face went from orange to green! Apparently this is an ancient Chinese art associated with a traditional opera where the performer would dance to music and instantly swap their mask with the flick of the fan or other movement. This event was definitely a highlight for me from the Lantern Festival.  [envira-gallery id=”2155″]

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Cycling Around Suo Oshima

Konichiwa or should I say, “Aloha!” Yashiro Island, better known as Suo Oshima, is an island located in eastern Yamaguchi Prefecture. Suo Oshima is a large island located in the Seto Inland Sea of Japan. Suo Oshima is connected to mainland by a huge green bridge named Oshima Bridge.  Somewhat mountainous with gorgeous beaches, Suo Oshima is also famous throughout Japan for their mandarin oranges or “Mikans,” in Japanese.  Why Aloha Island? Aside from the natural beauty and mikans, Oshima is also called the Aloha Island and has a relatively long history with the U.S. state of Hawaii.  Suo Oshima is the sister island of Kauai Island in Hawaii, and they share similar climates. In the late 19th century thousands of islanders from Suo Oshima immigrated to Hawaii to work on sugar plantations.  To this day, during the warmer summer months, several events are put on to celebrate the islands rich history with Hawaii. You can catch a hula dance or visit the museum to learn more about the immigration to Hawaii.  Cycling Around Oshima Island Cycling around Suo Oshima Island is very doable and can be done in one day or multiple days. If doing multiple days, there is a campground near the aquarium that has incredible ocean views.  I highly recommend cycling around the island, as there are so many scenic roads and narrow paths that go completely around the island. Most visitors will drive here and stay on the northern side of the island not knowing of the beauty and scenic beaches that surround the whole southern coast. There is a road that completely loops Suo Oshima. The road is in pretty good shape, and there are not to many steep uphill portions. For the most part, the road hugs the coast. Most attractions are located on the northern side of the island, there is the Mutsu Memorial Museum (Sunken Battleship), a campground, aquarium, and a small town with a few restaurants and convenience shops. Once you get  passed the campground at the far north-east tip, the southern side of the island is basically all coastal with a few tiny pockets of houses here and there, until you get closer to the main bridge again. It was an early November morning, my buddy Kimball and myself started at 5 am and rode until 6 pm the same day. In total we cycled 160 Kilometers or 100 miles, the photo above is the exact route taken from my GPS. Take into account, this is from departing Iwakuni which is 27 Km away. There is an observation deck shortly after crossing Oshima bridge, our goal was to get there by sunrise, we accomplished this.  Afterwards our goal was to bike around the island with the obvious stops at attractions and scenic views. About an hour into our ride, we  came across a local farmers market selling all sorts of treats made with their famous mikans. We stopped for a bit and loaded up on calories before heading out.  Shrines are all over Japan to include Suo Oshima Island. There was a decent sized shrine here named Ikadahachimangu right before Mutsu Park. Shortly after the campground the main road, cuts southward and the ride continues along the southern coast. The southern coast of Suo Oshima consisted of a very nice and scenic road that hugged the cliffs with great views of the ocean. There is not a whole lot of towns, convenience stores, etc.. on this portion. Although, there is a resort area here, it was all closed for the season when we were there. Summer time, might be a completely different experience! I love biking, but I am not so much a fan of biking just for exercise. I like turning it into a day trip and stopping to see stuff or going to places to eat, you know as a reward! We had no luck finding restaurants or anything really, until we passed a unique log cabin style building, kind of near the end of our journey around Suo Oshima. The restaurant was named Saruware and served freshly made pizza. Kimball and myself almost kept going but decided we had to stop and try it out. We were glad we did as the pizza was fantastic! I had a pizza with bacon and eggs on it and we split a dessert pizza with honey and ice cream, yumm! After riding all day it was the greatest feeling to sit down, wash our hands, and pig out! After spending about an hour there, we loaded back onto our bikes and made our way across the Oshima bridge, up Hwy 188, and back to Iwakuni. At the end of the day we rode 160.9 Kilometers, roughly 100 miles. Jill and Myself Rode 60 Miles Around Oshima On October 25, 2020, Jill and I rode our bikes around Suo Oshima. This time, we drove our car to the island instead of departing directly from Iwakuni by bike. After crossing the Oshima bridge, to the left there is a nice parking lot (Coordinates: 33.954786, 132.188402). We unloaded the bikes from the car, geared up and rode around the entire island. The trip was just about 96 kilometers or 60 miles and took us just under 6 hours to complete, take in to account that we stopped multiple times to take a breather, explore temples, and stop to take in the gorgeous views.  The two times I’ve biked Suo Oshima, I began the bike route going left on the north side of the island. By starting on the north side, the bike route is relatively flat hugging the coast the entire time. There are no real designated bike routes, but the roads and sidewalks are safe, there is not a whole lot of traffic to worry about. On this trip, Jill and I first stopped at the Ikadahachimangu Shrine, (No idea how to pronounce that). The Ikadahachimangu Shrine is a traditional shrine along the coast that has a small section of red Torii Gates and really impressive wood work. After a brief stop at the shrine, we passed the Mutsu Memorial Park and then veered right making our way to the southern side of Suo Oshima Island. The southern route of the island is a night and day difference when comparing it cycling on the northern side of the island. The northern route was smooth, easy going, and had towns with convenience stores and restaurants. The southern side is very hilly and desolate. Because of the terrain, our pace was much slower but the views on this side are incredible.   No matter where you are in Japan, you can see the affects of landslides (the second photo below).   Jill and I stumbled upon this one while riding the southern side. It looked to be recent as there were nothing but a few cones in place. Normally in Japan, they clear it out quickly and start stabilizing the area, either way it was kind of interesting to see.  The southern end of Oshima is pretty exhausting, it feels like it never ends due to the constant hills and switchbacks. I look at it as getting great exercise, Jill on the other hand was not as thrilled about it. There are some beautiful beaches along the route and after passing the Shonan Beach area, the ride gets smoother and easier passing by small towns. We didn’t really make any stops besides a small grocery store called A-Coop to refill our water bottles. We pedaled through all the way until we got back to the parking lot which was our starting point. At the end both Jill and I were exhausted, but cycling around Suo Oshima is such an incredibly beautiful experience, I would have no issues doing it again and again!  Don’t have a bike? no problem! Although biking is my preferred method to explore Suo Oshima, there are many other ways to get here and explore. Many people come here to relax on the beaches during the summer months. Obviously, the easiest way to get here is by driving, it is only 40 minutes from Iwakuni. You can also take the Japanese Rail line to the Obatake station and walk from there, not ideal but it can be done.  During the summer months, once the water warms up, swimming and snorkeling  are also great options. There are several beaches around the island, some maintained while others are more natural. Most of the beaches are on the southern part of the island, including some “Resort like” beaches that are very well maintained but can get crowded. Last time I visited Suo Oshima, I went to Shonan Beach and snorkeled the waters. Snorkeling was alright, there are a few areas that support vegetation for fish, so I saw quite a few fish on the smaller side and a jelly fish.  There are a few dive spots around the island as well. For my open water certificate, we dove at one of the coves on the southern side of the island. Visibility was horrible when we went. I don’t know if I would recommend it for diving, but I guess dive spots on mainland are rare, so why not dive here! In the town of Suooshima there are quite a few restaurant options. On another trip we stopped at a Hawaiian restaurant called Aloha Orange and they had great pancakes! There are quite a few ramen restaurants here and other restaurants, I can’t wait to try again!  There is also a Dog rescue here on the island that has a petting zoo as well. On Google, it is simply listed as “Dog Petting Zoo Store,” so not sure what it is actually called.  I stopped here with Kimball and a few other friends, we had a fun time! There was a small entrance fee, but you get to play and pet dogs, what’s not to love about that? Hopefully they all get adopted and live happy lives! There are also other animals (horses, pigs, llamas, rabbits, etc..) across the road that are part of the same rescue. If you want to see these animals they charge another fee, so we just decided to hang out and pet the doggies! Enjoying my photos and want to see more? 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