What to Know about Okinawa’s Shisa: The Guardian Lions
Okinawa is known for many things like Habushu, beautiful beaches, and festivals. But these all pale in comparison compared to the Shisa. If you’ve traveled anywhere in the Ryukyu Islands, you’ve probably noticed the half dog half lion statues sitting in front of almost every house, business, and roof. These mythical creatures are known as Shisa. Okinawa’s Shisa are said to stand guard and protect citizens from evil spirits. You generally see them in pairs. The female Shisa has a closed mouth which is intended to keep in the good spirits while the male Shisa sits there with its mouth open intending to scare away evil spirits. Curious about learning more on Okinawa’s Shisa? This post covers the history, legends, and where to buy Shisa statues in Okinawa.
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Okinawa’s Shisa is similar to the Komainu, which are the lion dog statues found on mainland Japan especially near temples. Both Komainu and Shisa are most likely derived from the Chinese Guardian Lions found in China. Although there are many theories how the Shisa’s origin came about in Okinawa, there is no definite answer. Most likely something similar was brought from China either from royalty or through trade but over time stories were passed down and the legend of the Shisa was born!
Most sources point the origin of the legend of the Shisa to the town of Madanbashi. Madanbashi is just south of Naha, Okinawa’s capital right along the Nagado River. The villagers of Madanbashi were under constant attack by a some sort of Sea Dragon. The villagers were hopeless and lived in constant fear of the sea dragon. One day, the King of the Ryukyu Islands paid a visit to the town as it was under attack by the dragon. A priestess in the village noticed the king had a figurine of a Shisa around his neck that was recently gifted to him from a diplomat of China at Shuri Castle.
The Sea Dragon approached the town as the king was there and the priestess yelled to the king to hold the small Shisa figurine up at the approaching dragon. As the king held the Shisa figurine to the dragon a huge “Roar” was heard from the sky and the Shisa figurine came to life. At the same time, a gigantic boulder fell from the sky and landed right on the poor dragons tail disabling his ability o move. The dragon pinned down by the boulder eventually died. At this point, the village was saved and they left the dragon where he died. Eventually the jungle took over, covering the dragons body and this became Gana-Mui Forest. In honor of the Shisa that saved the town of Madanbashi from the sea dragon, the villagers built a Shisa at the top of the hill to protect the village from the dragon’s evil spirits.
Okinawa's Shisa Today
Shisa are found throughout the Ryukyu Islands. They are guardians and protect from evil spirits. You will usually see Shisa in pairs, a female with her mouth closed and a male with his mouth wide open. If you pay attention, you will see them everywhere. Almost every house in Okinawa has a pair of Shisa’s sitting at the entrance. Not only houses will have Shisa, they are generally found in front of stores, office buildings, schools, parks, etc.. You can even find Shisa being used as construction barriers and road posts.
Shisa’s originally looked fierce and mighty but today you can find Shisa statues in all shapes and sizes with a variety of personalities from serious to down right goofy.
There are even a few fun manhole covers around Okinawa that have Shisa painted on them. One manhole cover I found was near Saion Ufu Shisa and the other one is fairly new near Katsuren Castle.
Popular Shisa Statues Around Okinawa
Although Shisa statues can be found throughout Okinawa, there are a few that stand out more then the rest. Whether it be their historical significance, location, or just sheer size, the three Shisa statues listed below are some of the most popular and photographed Shisa statues on the island of Okinawa.
Cape Zanpa Giant Shisa
Cape Zanpa is known for its rugged coastline, white lighthouse, and a giant Shisa. I believe this is the largest Shisa in Okinawa. I’m not entirely sure why there is only one Shisa here but it’s well worth a visit not to mention Cape Zanpa is a beautiful area to explore.
Saion Ufu Shisa
Saion Ufu Shisa is another famous Shisa statue in Okinawa. Saion Ufu Shisa is located right by the Makishi Monorail Station. This Shisa statue is 3.4 meters tall and weighs 3 tons. Apparently it’s made out of tsuboya pottery and took 5 months to create.
The Stone Lion of Tomori
The Stone Lion of Tomori is a historical Shisa statue sitting on top of a ridge overlooking the community of Tomori. This Shisa has always been popular among the locals but it became a famous tourist spot because there is a famous photograph of soldiers hunkered behind and around the statue looking through binoculars at a distant ridge. You can search online for the original picture, I tried my best to recreate the original! I believe the Stone Lion of Tomori is the oldest of Okinawa’s Shisa statues, it was created in 1689.
Today, the Stone Lion of Tomori sits within a nice little park on top of a hill. Thankfully, this statue survived the war and still stands, although it is riddled with bullet holes.
Best Places to Buy Shisa
Shisa’s can be bought all throughout the Ryukyu Islands. On the main island of Okinawa, you can find a pair of Shisa in just about every souvenir shop.
They come in all shapes and sizes. Some are mass produced while others are made by local artists and potters. If you are in a hurry while leaving Okinawa and need a quick gift you can always purchase a pair of Shisa at Naha International Airport.
For a more authentic pair of Shisa or just a better variety then the standard ones found at souvenir shops, I know of a few locations that specialize in making Shisa statues that to me are more meaningful and unique. Below are two locations, I recommend visiting if in the hunt for a pair of Shisa statues.
Naha's Tsuboya Yachimun Street
Tsuboya Yachimun Street is located in downtown Naha. “Yachimun” is the Okinawan word for pottery and this street is famous for its many shops that sell handcrafted pottery and Shisa statues. Nearly every shop along Tsuboya Yachimun Street carries Shisa and each shop will have a good variety of Shisa statues to buy. At this point, it is all up to the buyer on what they want. Are you looking for a medium sized and more serious Shisa for your front entrance or do you want small, silly, Shisa’s that are full of character for your work desk? No matter what you are looking for, you are sure to find a pair of Shisa on Tsuboya Yachimun Street that fits your liking.
Yachimun no Sato (Yomitan Pottery Village)
Another great option to find hand made Shisa statues is Yachimun no Sato in Yomitan. The Yomitan Pottery Village is smaller then Tsuboya Yachimun Street, but has a great variety of Shisa statues. There is a parking lot at the entrance of the village, and buyers can enter the shops that are open for business. Many of the shops here are homes, so it is a great opportunity to see what a traditional Okinawan home looks like. Each shop seemed to carry very similar pottery items it’s all the same style after all. But the majority of the shops at Yachimun no Sato do carry Shisa statues. I would say prices here are a bit on the higher end, but you never know what you might find.
Conclusion
Okinawa’s Shisa stands as a symbol of Okinawa. These guardian lions have a rich history in Okinawa and are even present in todays culture. These mythical creatures can be seen throughout Okinawa, whether the pair are sitting on a rooftop or guarding the entrance to a residential home, the Shisa is loved by both locals and visitors.
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4 Comments
Donna Emperador
This was very interesting. I had done a virtual tour of Kyoto and learned about some of the statues found at the Tori gates. But I have never actually been to Japan.
zimminaround
Thanks for reading. I hope you get a chance to travel to Japan in the future and see the Torii gates in person!
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